“Teal to the east!” brought Dian, my wife, and Pete, our yellow Lab to full alert. Dian’s grip on her new Stoeger 12-gauge semi-auto tightened. It was her first teal hunt.

“Peep, peep, peep, peep,” I blew softly on my H.S. Waterfowl 6-in-1 duck whistle. Several hens in the flight of blue-winged teal answered as the flock of 40 birds winged towards the west end of the small lake.

“Don’t forget to get out in front of these birds,” I whispered to Dian. “They are fast. I will give the signal to shoot when they hit the end of the decoy string.”

Dian and I swung our shotguns in perfect symphony. When the barrage of six shots subsided, five blue-winged teal lay belly-up in the decoys. Three of them belonged to Dian. Pete paddled rapidly to retrieve Dian’s very first teal.

“Awesome shooting, babe,” I shouted at a beaming new teal hunter.

Dedicated waterfowlers across every flyway in the nation can’t wait for teal season to arrive each year. In most states teal season begins in early September giving hunters an early opportunity to warm up for the duck seasons to come.

Blue-winged teal make up the most of the birds in the early teal migrations. However, a few green-winged and cinnamon teal always show up in hunters’ bags, adding icing to an already wonderful cake.

Gunners everywhere count down the dog days of August, don their short-sleeved camo shirts and stockpile extra mosquito repellant in preparation for opening day. Those items, along with cool drinks, are something you will not find in November duck blinds. Hunting waterfowl in the heat of late summer may seem odd to some, but hunters are grateful for the opportunity to tune up on teal before the big ducks arrive.

Teal are perhaps the easiest of the waterfowl species to hunt. They are great confidence builders for waterfowlers on their first hunt of the year, or for first-time duck hunters. Teal decoy readily, but are difficult to hit when they zoom over a decoy set at 60mph.

It takes very little equipment and experience to hunt teal. Equipment is a matter of personal choice. The chosen body of water often dictates the style of hunting. Small ponds are a cinch. Make-shift blinds made of natural materials are easy to construct. Six decoys, of any species, will turn the trick. Add a few peeps from a teal whistle and you are in the teal hunting business.

For larger ponds and small lakes, a canoe is the perfect craft. A 17-foot canoe will carry two people, one dog, two dozen decoys and other necessities such as snacks, drinks and a length of camo material. Also, the canoe can be stashed in the brush and hunters can construct a simple shoreline blind. Small portable blinds work well, too.

I position my decoys facing into the wind, arranged in two or three family groups with 10-to-15-feet between groups. Placing the holes in the set at your best shot angles will insure easy shots as the birds attempt to land in the holes.

H.S. waterfowler Pro Staffer Barney Calef recommends scouting heavily before the season begins. “Blue-wings like shallow, flooded areas where the water is less than a foot deep. Lots of vegetation helps, too.”

“Look for sign,” Calef said. “The easiest sign to find is feathers floating on the surface of the water. It takes a lot of teal to leave very many feathers.”

Calef likes to toss out a dozen decoys in a loose bunch.  “I stick mostly to hen decoys,” he stated. “The ducks are not in their winter plumage and the drab colored hen decoys seem to work a little better.”

Calef calls to teal very little, but prefers to use the 6-in-1 call from the Barney Calef line.

“The spinning-wing decoys, where legal, are absolutely deadly for decoying teal,” Calef concluded.

The simple 6-in-1 call is the only call hunters really need, but I — like most hunters — enjoy taking along a mallard hen call. It is fun to use, provides some much needed practice for subsequent seasons and is very effective on teal. Blue wings do make a different sound resembling a rapid “kak…kak…kak.” Peeps from a teal whistle work well also.

Ammunition is a highly debated issue, but 2-3/4-inch steel magnums perform well on teal. I prefer the Winchester Extended Range shotshells in number 4s.

One of my favorite teal hunting spots is a 75-acre public lake. The small lake provides one good point to set up for waterfowl on the north side. Seasonal winds are always out of the south-southwest in September. As a result, my decoys are always facing away from me and approaching teal come in to my back, into the wind, or to the left. Neck cramps are a factor and we often get caught with our guns down if the birds have not circled the lake at least once. Quick shots are often necessary as the tiny targets zoom over head. Quite often flocks sneaking in from behind zoom overhead, see the decoys and loop straight back to access the holes in the set. That fact alone makes teal easy to hunt. When first time hunters are along, I often allow the birds to land in the decoys and then flush them to give the beginners easier shots.

Teal hunting allows the added bonus of getting your dog out for some early season retrieving practice. The dog will greatly enjoy the swim during warm weather, and you will enjoy the opportunity to polish your retriever before the longer seasons begin.

Teal are excellent table fare as well. We enjoy filling the cavities with stuffing, wrapping the tiny birds in bacon and cooking them in a covered dish at 350 degrees for 20 minutes. Do not overcook. Duck is most flavorful when on the rare side.

Twenty minutes into our hunt a second flock of teal appeared on the horizon. I started calling as soon as the birds hit the far side of the lake. They headed straight for the decoy set.

Dian fired one time and her fourth and final teal tumbled to the water. I fired three times and dropped one more bird. I still needed one more bird to finish my limit. Fifteen minutes later Dian asked if we could head for home. She had a lot of chores to do.

While we were unloading the boat at the ramp an elderly gentleman walked up to us and asked how we did. Dian quickly replied, “I got a limit, but he didn’t!”

That was one factor I had not thought of. Dian is a certified NRA shooting instructor. I began hitting the clays range. You should too.

written by Bill Cooper

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Wood Duck WisdomWood duck hunting has a special place in my heart. The first bird I ever shot was a drake woody that catapulted out of the pickerel weeds just ahead of my canoe. The memory of that duck, rising against the red swamp maples and blue autumn sky is as clear now as it was on that day, some thirty years ago. Since then, I’ve devoted countless days afield chasing these gorgeous birds. Here’s what I’ve learned along the way.

Find the Right Spot

Being at the right place at the right time is half the trick to any outdoors pursuit, and it’s no different when hunting wood duck. Finding that magical combination takes observational skills, a bit of patience and some logic.

First, rule out the unlikely places. Understanding how wood ducks relate to varying water depth makes this easier.

Typically, woodies roost near cover that emerges from deeper or bigger water — places where terrestrial and airborne predators can’t easily surprise them in the night.

In our area, one of the biggest early season roost sites is within a cat tail colony in the middle of a big river. In the evening, the woodies and teal pour into the little potholes within it, just as they do in larger isolated potholes in remote parts of the mainland marsh and back bays near the entrances.

Leave the roost alone though. Hunt it too much and wood duck will clear out of the area. Instead, set up for an evening hunt in areas between the feeding areas and the roost. That’s because woodies prefer direct flight paths to and from wherever they are going. So setting up between the marsh and the roost area, especially where tree lines funnel them out, can provide fine pass shooting in the evening.

Morning hunts are different. Then, a hunter is better off ambushing the feeding areas. These tend to be areas with water depths of 20 centimeters (8 inches) or less. Often, wood ducks and other dabbling ducks will loaf on logs overlooking these spots too.

These places hold food such as duck weed, acorns, berries, and the seeds of pickerel weed. They’re also where wood ducks pursue aquatic insects and crustaceans that make up a significant portion of their diet.

I’ve learned to pay special attention to the shallow, secluded corners of marshy pot holes, active beaver ponds, and meandering creeks within wetlands or hardwood bottoms. Likewise, when it comes to acorns, nothing beats a flooded oak stand.

Logs covered in duck droppings with feathers floating nearby also reveal regular hangouts. These are important because, in my experience, until pressured or conditions change, wood duck are creatures of habit. Last fall, I flushed the same drake from the very same log three times before I finally got a shot and folded him.

Decoys

Wood ducks are keen to decoy if the setup is right. In fact, early in the season, unpressured local birds rarely circle twice before dropping in.

My favorite early season spread consists of two drakes and four hen wood duck decoys, which I set up separate from an equal number of mallards, similarly mixed.

For years, I used mallard decoys and did just fine, but wood duck decoys add realism to the spread and, I’m convinced, help when lots of woodies are around. Mallards, blacks, teal and other puddle ducks also find this spread equally attractive, so mixed bags are often the case.

When ducks are nervous, they crowd up first, so a loose setup gives the impression of a relaxed, secure flock. Set decoys at least six feet apart and twenty yards from the blind; the exception is in flooded timber, where you can stand with your back against trees among the decoys, kicking up ripples as you call.

Ducks will invariably land against the wind, so the landing zone within your spread should be placed so a decoying bird’s approach and landing is within everyone’s shooting arc. I prefer a cross wind from the blind. That way ducks are not passing over or looking directly at you as they land.

I place most decoys on the edge of the pickerel weeds, rushes, or in the duck weed as if they are feeding. But some should also be in whatever current is available. The idea is to strike a balance between realism and visibility; it’s no good to have a great decoy spread if the ducks don’t see it.

Dress for Success

Camouflage and comfort are key considerations in waterfowling attire. Obviously, your camouflage should blend with your surroundings, but a good duck blind will cover up a lot of mistakes too; that’s why I never fret if my camo isn’t exact. To me, what’s truly important is that the blind is well hidden and that everyone is wearing a camouflaged face mask and hat. These are particularly important because ducks will see a shiny face or light-colored hair popping over the edge of the blind from surprising distances.

A good set of chest waders is important too. Even if you are using a boat or canoe, sometime during the hunt, perhaps when handling a retriever, waders will come in handy.

Call of the Wild

Though you can do well without ever using a call, the proper and judicious use of a wood duck call will give you the edge. The best are easy to use and sound great.

They are particularly effective when hunting flooded timber where their high pitched peeps filter through the canopy to passing birds or those loafing out of sight.

If I see woodies in the distance or if they have swung wide of my decoys and are on the way out, I’ll also give them a squeal. Additionally, I’ll call when I hear but do not see birds in the air, on foggy days, and at first light in response to wood ducks vocalizing on the water. Like most duck calling, a little goes a long way and it pays to watch the bird’s reaction if you can see it.

Listen

Few other puddle ducks are as vocal as early-season wood ducks, especially when they are approaching decoys, or are on the water in early morning. That’s why it pays to listen for them, particularly when you are hunting in tight places like small brush-choked ponds or willow swamps.

Often their call will give you just enough time to duck, freeze, or get ready to shoot. This makes the difference between being caught flat-footed and doubling.

Shotguns

I use a 12-gauge pump for all waterfowling. Most of my buddies use autoloaders. The similarities are that they are quick-handling and hold a trio of 3-inch shells. We rely on #4 steel shot and #5 in non-toxic loads which handle any early season duck nicely.

Wood DuckIt’s hard to beat a modified choke on a 26 or 28 inch barrel too. The exception, again, is in flooded timber or really tight cover where a more open choke will prove its worth.

The Value of a Good Dog

Every waterfowler should own a well-trained retriever. I currently own an English Springer Spaniel and a Labrador Retriever.

A good dog is a pleasure to share a blind with and will locate birds you would have never found yourself. It’s amazing how a bird as gaudy as a drake wood duck can hide in plain sight. It’s even more amazing how a good retriever can find downed birds in some of the hellish cover they end up in. If you want to take your waterfowling to the next level, you really need a duck dog.

Food for thought

Wood duck are among our finest tasting waterfowl. No surprise since they eat  (among other things) acorns and berries. It doesn’t hurt that their delicate feathers are great for fly tying or that they are perhaps the most beautiful North American duck there is. You’d think that these are reasons enough to target wood ducks. But I think there’s more to it than that.

Sometime during your first successful wood duck hunt, when there’s a break in the shooting, and right after your dog has brought to hand another gorgeous drake, you’ll look around and notice the sun lighting up the cat tails. As a cool autumn breeze sweeps through and makes your decoys dance, you’ll then marvel at the ochers, yellows and golds on the surrounding hillsides and little swamp islands. Then, somewhere beyond the tree line, a distant wood duck will sound off, wild and defiant, and your dog’s ears will perk up a bit. Right about then, you’ll smile and swear you’ll be back soon. Wood ducks just have that effect on a person.

written by Steve Galea

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When people think of camping, the first image that comes to mind is probably of a group of friends or family members gathered around a blazing campfire, laughing, telling stories or roasting hot dogs. The fire is not only the social hub of a campsite; it also is what keeps us warm and cooks our food.

For many people, however, building a safe, enjoyable campfire never seems to come easy. They light a match, start a small blaze and then watch as the crackling fire they had hoped for turns into a pile of scorched, smoking sticks.

Building a campfire isn’t difficult, however, if you carefully follow a few guidelines. Done right, all you’ll need is a single match, maybe two, to get it started.

For safety’s sake, begin by choosing a safe spot for the fire. Pick a location in an open space more than 10 feet away from brush and trees. Then clear a 10-foot circle down to mineral dirt — free of dry leaves, grass, twigs and pine needles. On grassy soil, cover turf with a mound of mineral soil. If the ground is wet, build your fire on a floor of sticks or bark of dead trees. In winter, scrape away snow before laying this floor.

Next, you’ll need perfectly dry fuel for making the fire. This includes three types of material: tinder, kindling and fuel. The type of tinder, kindling and fuel you use depends on the area in which you’re camping. By keeping your eyes open and experimenting with native materials, you will quickly learn what to use.

Tinder is flammable material that will flare up when touched with the flame from a burning match. In areas with evergreens, look for the tiny dead twigs that seem to sprout right from the bark. The tips of dead branches of many other kinds of trees are also usable. An old mouse or bird nest can provide good tinder, too. If everything else is wet, split open a log with a hatchet, and you are pretty certain to find dry wood in the center. Cut the center part into small sticks and whittle out wood shavings for starting your fire.

Kindling is thin branches or split wood that will catch the flame from the tinder and, in turn, ignite the heavier fuel. Use pieces about the thickness of a pencil gathered on the ground or split from the interior of logs.

Fuel does the real job of providing heat or a cooking fire. This can range from thumb-thick branches for cooking a simple meal to heavy logs for keeping a fire going throughout a long night in a winter camp.





Gather a good-sized pile of each material — tinder, kindling and fuel — before you start laying your fire. One of the biggest mistakes made by greenhorns is not having enough of each to get a blaze going.

As you lay your firewood, remember that a campfire must have oxygen in order to burn. Thus you must lay the fire materials so air can easily flow through. There are several ways of doing this, including the simple lean-to fire lay. You start this fire lay by pushing a green “lean-to” stick into the ground at a 30-degree angle. Point the top of the stick in the direction from which the wind comes. Next, place a good amount of tinder well in under the lean-to stick. Then break kindling wood into short lengths and lean them carefully against the lean-to stick on both sides. Continue building up the fire by leaning thicker fuel sticks against the thinner kindling wood. Now, if your wood is dry as it’s supposed to be, you can strike a match (keeping the wind at your back), cup your hands around it until it has a good flame, then apply it to the tinder and you’ll have a campfire going in no time at all.

From this point, add progressively larger sticks to the fire, always making sure that enough oxygen is getting to the wood. The first reaction might be to throw on a big log right away, but this would probably just snuff the fire out. Instead, work your way up to bigger and bigger pieces of wood, maintaining the air flow underneath. Eventually the fire will be blazing strong, and you can add those larger logs.

There are many other fire lays you can use that will serve your needs just as well as the lean-to lay. Use any you might learn, but always remember to follow the three basic rules of fire-building: 1) make sure your fuel is very dry; 2) use plenty of tinder to light your kindling, and plenty of kindling to light your fuel; and 3) lay your fire materials so plenty of air can flow through and feed oxygen to the blaze.

The experienced camper builds each fire to meet a particular set of needs. For example, if you need a cooking fire, you’ll be better off burning hardwoods such as oak and hickory and creating a horizontal bed of coals to cook on or over. If you’re baking with a reflector oven, you need flames that radiate heat. Softwoods like pine burn hot and fast, making them ideal for this type of fire. For your evening “friendship” campfire, you will want a fire that lights up the whole circle and goes on burning throughout the evening. Stacking wood log-cabin fashion, a couple of feet high, is ideal for this.

Make your fire just large enough to meet your needs. That’s one of the main secrets of proper fire building — the smaller the fire, the safer it is. When the fire is started, never leave it unattended. And when you’re ready to leave, extinguish the fire by killing all embers and dousing all sticks with water. Stir and douse again.

Do these things and you will find it quite simple to enjoy the benefits of a safe, enjoyable campfire on every camping trip.

written by Keith Sutton

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John Q. Camper was having a nice visit. He arrived at the state park late in the morning, set up a small tent, stowed his gear and food inside, then decided to take a hike down one of the park trails. When he returned, he noticed a bag of food overturned near the entrance of the tent. He went over to check it, and that’s when the skunk — munching on Twinkies in the paper sack — sprayed him in the face. Not only did the skunk spray temporarily blind him, it ruined his tent and everything inside.

At another campground, Charlie Q. Camper is trying to figure out what happened to the cookies he just opened and placed on a picnic table. He’d laid the snacks down momentarily while he walked to the restroom, and when he returned, half the package was empty. No one was in sight so he was puzzled — but not for long. As he sat staring at the half-empty cookie bag, a jay swooped down and grabbed another Nutter Butter.

That incident was minor compared to what happened that night. Something awoke Charlie, something cold wriggling against his leg in his sleeping bag. He grabbed a flashlight, carefully unzipped the bag and found a small copperhead that had squeezed into the bag next to him. Charlie froze for a moment, paralyzed with fear, then carefully slid out of the bag and used a stick to lift the snake and carry it outside. He thanked his lucky stars he hadn’t rolled over on the serpent and gotten bitten.

Little Johnny Camper wasn’t quite as lucky. He was eating lunch at a picnic table with his family, and when he lifted a soda can to take a drink, a yellow-jacket stung him on the lip. Johnny is allergic to insect stings. Fortunately, his mother had brought along a sting kit containing the medicine needed to counteract Johnny’s allergic reaction. She gave him a shot, and Johnny was okay except for a grossly swollen lip that was painful for several hours.

One reason we enjoy camping is because of the opportunities it provides to commune with Mother Nature. As the campers above learned, however, Mother Nature can sometimes be a nuisance or even dangerous. Seeing critters around camp can seem nice until those critters start causing problems.

There are some basic guidelines we can follow, however, to help make our experiences with wild animals less stressful for them and less dangerous for us. The first rule is to check your warm and fuzzy feelings at the door because these aren’t cartoon characters. They’re wild animals that can be unpredictable. It’s best to discourage visits by most animals, both for your sake and the critter’s.

Food Problems

As the scenarios at the beginning of this story indicate, food is one of the primary wildlife attractors in camp. It may seem like you’re doing the right thing when you feed a family of hungry raccoons that visits your camp, but if one of those coons bites you, it will have to be destroyed and you’ll wind up taking painful rabies shots. Nobody wins.

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Likewise, feeding the semi-tame crow that’s been coming around may seem really neat until that same crow flies off with your car keys. Crows and ravens like shiny objects almost as much as they like Oreos and potato chips.

Smart campers store all foods, including dog food and horse feed, in closed, wildlife-resistant containers. They also keep sleeping bags, tents and sleeping areas free of food and beverage odors. And they never sleep in clothes that were worn while cooking.

Keep a clean camp. After meals, wipe down tables and chairs. Wash dishes and utensils immediately and dispose of wastewater downwind, at least 100 feet from your sleeping area. Store odorous items such as garbage in wildlife-resistant containers.

When leaving camp, pack all food scraps and trash in sealed plastic bags and take it with you for proper disposal. When these items are left behind or buried, they attract animals to campsites, increasing the chance of bad encounters either for you or the next campers.

Hunting Camps

In hunting camps, there are additional precautions you should take, especially in areas inhabited by bears:

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Wear gloves and an apron when dressing game to reduce odors on your clothing.
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When you gut an animal, separate the carcass from the entrails. Then quickly remove the carcass from the area. The longer a carcass is left in the field, the greater the chance of a bear-human conflict. Be sure not to leave entrails within one mile of a trail, campsite, picnic area or parking lot.
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Don’t store game carcasses too close to camp or near a trail. Bears attracted by the smell may cause problems. You also should remember to take a pulley system and rope to camp so you can hang game and food out of reach of bears. Carcasses and food bags should be at least 10-15 feet above the ground and four feet out from the supporting structure.
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Hang game and food items so they can be seen from a distance. This allows you to observe the items when you return. If a bear has claimed the food for itself, you can avoid it. Surrender the carcass or food to a bear if he has already begun feeding on it.
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Knives and other tools used when dressing game should be washed thoroughly and stored with your game.

Mosquitoes, Ticks and Other Bugs

Biting bugs such as mosquitoes, ticks, chiggers, horseflies and gnats can quickly bring an end to your comfort around the campground, so take along something that will repel these little nasties. Citronella candles and the various bug repellent devices now on the market may help keep them away from the immediate area, but for thorough protection you may need to apply a good insect repellent to your skin.

For added protection, wear a hat, long-sleeve shirt and long pants. Camp in open, wind-swept areas if possible and use insect-proof tents with fine mesh screens.

Stinging insects such as wasps, bees, hornets, velvet ants and fire ants also can cause problems, especially for those allergic to stings. People vary in their reactions to stings. Most have only temporary discomfort. But some go into severe, sometimes fatal, shock. A doctor-prescribed medication should always be carried by people allergic to stings.

Stings happen when you least expect them. You drink a bee with your soda pop. You sit on a soft dirt mound of FIRE ANTS! You snag your fishing line on a limb attached to a hornet nest. You drive your tent stake through a nest of ground yellow jackets.

To prevent stings, watch for and avoid nests of stinging insects. Wear shoes outdoors. Don’t wear perfume and bright-colored clothing outdoors as these attract stinging insects. Don’t leave food exposed outside and don’t swat at stinging insects.

Mammal Pests

Little critters like mice and porcupines may not cause campers the sleepless nights we often have when visiting bear country. But no one wants to wake up and find a mouse-sized hole in a brand-new backpack, or porcupine tooth-marks in a favorite pair of perfectly broken-in boots.

With these animals, you need to remember, it’s not what you call food that counts; it’s what they call food that counts! That includes cooking utensils, toothpaste, sunscreen and garbage. It can also include T-shirts, boots and the hip-belt of a pack, all of which can taste delicious to salt-loving porcupines and even deer. Natural fabrics are at risk, as well; mice use them as nesting material.

It’s better to place such items in a pack or bag that is hung from a tree branch, even if the branch is only a few feet off the ground. Don’t leave your stuff on the ground. When it’s up out of the way, animals are less likely to find it.

It’s also a good idea to keep your distance from bigger animals, even if they seem tame. A deer or elk that seems friendly could lash out with its hooves and cause serious injuries. Female animals with young can be especially unpredictable and dangerous. It’s best to always keep your distance, and don’t feed animals, even if they come into camp looking hungry. It’s a strong temptation to feed seemingly friendly wildlife, but that accomplishes two negative ends. It makes them dependent upon human food, and it encourages them to hang around a human camp, both of which can be dangerous for them.

Snakes

Snakes occasionally turn up in campsites, but you can reduce problems with them if you follow these precautions.

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Camp in an area that’s open, with no brush, fallen trees or rock piles nearby.
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Don’t handle snakes or provoke them; most bites occur in this way.
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Learn the types of snakes likely to be encountered where you’re camping, particularly venomous species, and keep your distance.
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Wear shoes when walking outside, and use a flashlight at night to light your path. Always watch where you step and where you place your hands.
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If someone in camp does get bitten, seek medical attention immediately.

A Final Word

This article isn’t meant to discourage you from enjoying wildlife around camp. When you’re doing so, however, use good judgment and a little common sense. Don’t inadvertently place yourself in a situation that could cause harm to you or the animal.

written by Keith Sutton

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We’ve all been there. That point when we’re enjoying ourselves, pursuing our various outdoor pursuits, when that first drop hits. Soon enough, we find our gear, food, and selves soaked completely through. The eternal question remains: how do we prepare ourselves without overdoing it? Let’s start with the basics.

Each spring, before heading out into the woods, it’s a good idea to devote one entire day to waterproofing your gear. There are so many waterproofing agents out on the market that it’s difficult to choose the one that’s best for your gear. Whichever product you pick, just make sure it fits the task at hand.

Tents

With all the different tent designs around, there is one constant: they all have seams. Devote some time and attention to picking out a seam sealer, and when you apply it to your equipment, make sure you don’t miss a single seam. Most tents these days have a rain fly, which needs to be treated with a waterproofing spray as well. For ease of coating and drying, set up your tent. This will allow you to get each side covered more effectively.

Backpacks

You can employ the same products that you use for your tent to waterproof your quality backpack. For added clothing and supply protection, many outdoor enthusiasts choose to line their pack with one large dry bag or several smaller bags. When properly used, these bags ensure a dry pair of socks, even if your pack floats downstream. There is also rain gear available that fits over both you and your backpack and water-resistant backpack covers that fit over your pack alone.

People Protection

Hoods and hats protect your noggin, and a quality outerwear system can mean the difference between a good trip and a bad one. As far as outerwear is concerned, money can buy you happiness.  If you spend it nowhere else, spend it here on your shell.  Look for versatility; your shell should allow for converting from cold winter climates back to warm days on the equator with relative ease. Gore-Tex is the most well known of weatherproof fabrics.  However, there are currently many choices when it comes to breathable waterproof fabrics. Whichever you choose, just make sure you take care of it properly by reading the laundering instructions on the garment tag. There are many myths related to proper waterproof clothing care, and some manufacturers suggest special detergents to help extend the life of your outerwear.

Boots

The waterproof agent you choose here will depend entirely upon the make-up of your footwear material. Multi-purpose sprays are great for the day-tripper who steps in the occasional puddle. For those that want a little something more substantial, there are a variety of waxes, oils, and other products. Some of these treatments even require a hair dryer or heat for penetration, so again, be sure to check the care instructions on the label.  Your boots can last for years to come by simply following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Tips and Tricks

* If it says ”use in a well-ventilated area” on the can, do so.
* Heed ”recommended distance” suggestions when spraying; too close or too far away could render your work fruitless.
* Use latex/rubber gloves to protect hands during application. If you are like me, you’ll automatically use your finger to rub the stuff in crevices. Trust me. Clean-up will be a breeze and you’ll actually be able to wash your hands for dinner.
* If the product says that heat is necessary for absorption into the fabric, this is not just a suggestion.

For the relatively small amount of money required to waterproof and treat your expensive outdoor gear, it makes sense to take the time and effort to do so. Having your gear properly protected from the elements will definitely make the time you spend in the outdoors more enjoyable. So stay dry, and have a great camping season!

written by Jason Akl

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You never really know how limited space is in a tent until you’re forced to spend several hours in it seeking shelter from a heavy rainstorm. Of course, the actual size of the tent and the number of people in it impacts available space, but there are interior options, accessories and packing habits that can help you maximize tent space and interior comfort. Here are a few tips on how to make the most of the space inside your tent.

Haven’t Bought It Yet?

If you haven’t bought a tent yet, here are a few words of advice on spacing.  Buy a tent that’s rated at least one, if not two, persons larger than the number you intend to have sleep inside it. This is a good rule of thumb unless you’re concerned about the size and weight of a packed tent. The first tent I bought was a two person; with two people in its tight quarters there was barely room to move around. The lesson I learned is that I should have bought at least a three- or a four-person tent, to accommodate backpacks and spare clothes in the tent.

Another thing to consider when buying a tent is its footprint and shape. Not all tents are created equal and some designs will suit your needs better than others. You can measure the length and width of your sleeping bag and pad (or cot) to ensure the tent has enough space to fit your gear with a bit of extra space. If stores have tents set up, get inside and lie down and bring in a few items to ensure you’ll have enough space. Keep in mind you want extra room at the tent’s sides to ensure you’ve got enough space for gear once you load it in. If family camping, getting a tent with dividers can break up space for gear versus sleeping, and dividers with zippers will let you go to an open concept when people are hanging out in the tent.

Consider a dome-style or cabin-style tent for plenty of overhead room, unless you’re concerned about weight and tent pack-size. These tents let you sit up comfortably and in some models you can crouch or stand inside. Being able to move around freely in the tent will help you keep your entrances and exits quick, equating to fewer bugs than cramped campers stuck fumbling with zippers or tripping over door bases. Extra space will also pay off if you ever get stuck in the tent in a rain storm, preventing the feeling of claustrophobia that tiny tents can create.

Tent Accessories and Carving out Space

Once you’ve bought a tent, the next step is being creative and using accessories to maximize the interior space. The first thing to do is determine the best way to use the storage space in your tent. If possible, store items outside instead of cramming all your gear into the tent. In most cases hanging food is the safest bet to discourage animals from invading your camp site.  Other gear can be kept in a car, under a canoe, wrapped in a tarp, or tucked under the tent’s vestibule.

Once inside, it’s best to take advantage of the tents internal pockets and compartments to store gear and clothing. Most tents come with a hanging organizer or storage system that clips into poles or loop holes and hangs from the ceiling. You can easily expand the storage capacity of these units by running rope or stretch cords under them again and make a great inside clothesline or flashlight holder, just make sure you don’t overload the loops with too much weight.

If you’re sleeping with a cot, use the space underneath it to store gear.  There are cot organizers and bags that hang over the sides to keep items organized and within reach.  If sleeping on an air mattress or pad, keep backpacks and other items off the sleeping area. Pile items on top of each other or store them in the tent’s other compartments. Don’t let items touch the tent walls as condensation can accumulate on cool nights and dampen items.

To store clothes use compression bags and stuff sacks to cut down on the space requirements of these items. Travel organizers can also be handy to keep all your toiletries and personal items in one bag. This allows you to only have the things you really need in one small bag, while other items can be packed away in larger bags.

Cutting Down on Bulk

One of the biggest things you can do to increase the space in your tent is to minimize the amount of stuff you bring camping. No where is this more true than with clothes. Following the layering rule to outdoor wear (to add on or take off layers to regulate temperature) is a better option than bringing clothes only for specific temperature ranges. Many outdoor clothes today are also synthetic blends and can be compressed easily, a lot better than a bulky wool sweater anyway. Reducing the amount of clothes you bring will dramatically impact the amount of space in your tent.

The same reduction thinking is important to keep in mind when packing for your trip. Consider what items can perform double duty. For example, stuffing extra clothes into a pillow case reduces the need for you to pack a pillow.  Another example is the rope used to secure items in a canoe can double as a clothesline (whether in the tent or out) instead of bringing extra rope.

Tents can be tight on space but options do exist to keep them comfortable and somewhat roomy. The key to tent comfort is choosing the right sized tent, bringing only the items you need, and using organizing accessories to maximize interior storage space. The inside of a tent will never be as good as your bedroom at home but hey, isn’t that what the outdoor experience is all about?

written by Tim Allard

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Searching for a prime deer-hunting spot? Don’t overlook the rich farmlands scattered throughout whitetail country. Many sportsmen confine their hunting to wooded areas year after year, drawn back to the forests by a strong sense of tradition. But the farmland alternative also is worthy of consideration, for many good reasons.

First, agricultural foods are very important in the deer’s diet, especially during the hard months of winter. A study conducted along the Mississippi River, for example, found that five of the 10 preferred deer foods were crops raised by farmers. These were winter wheat, corn, alfalfa, grass and lespedeza.

Farm crops also have a high protein content and tend to produce deer that are bigger, healthier and fatter than woodland deer. A whitetail thriving on corn, soybeans, alfalfa and other farm crops can stay in good physical condition year-round. Woodland deer, on the other hand, may run into hard times, especially during years when the mast crop is poor.

Studies have found that deer concentrations can be up to 10 times higher in the immediate vicinity of agricultural crops than in more remote wooded areas. These same studies reveal that the deer disperse when the food is gone. But in many areas, winter wheat, waste grain and other farm foods are available to deer throughout the season. In farming areas, deer may remain concentrated on agricultural lands well past the time when hunting season ends.

Finally, because most farmlands are privately owned, access is limited. This gives resident bucks time to gain that part of the big buck-equation most often missing: age. An older buck is a bigger buck, almost without exception.

Finding a Farm to Hunt

Herds of deer often live near farms and visit the farmer’s fields. Quite often they join right in with the cows and feed alongside them to their heart’s content. The sweeter the grass, the more they eat and the healthier they get.

This probably won’t bother the farmer too much because usually there’s plenty of grass to go around. But the deer don’t stop there. Almost all other farm products appeal to deer. Soybeans and corn are big winners. Green vegetables are delights. Hay fields attract deer, as do patches of lespedeza and alfalfa.

The piece-de-resistance is fruit. Peach, grape and apple orchards may attract heavy concentrations of deer.

Because damage caused by deer is often extensive and expensive, most farmers welcome hunters who exhibit responsible behavior.

When looking for farmland to hunt, check with your local game warden. These professionals often know landowners who are experiencing serious crop damage caused by overabundant whitetails.

On a farm I once hunted, the landowner once showed me 40 acres of freshly sprouted soybeans that had been nipped close to the ground by feeding deer. Damage by deer was so great, the farmer received a deer depredation permit from the local wildlife officer that allowed him to shoot several deer to help minimize crop destruction. The owner, eager to reduce his financial losses, was more than happy to allow me to hunt deer on his land several days each season.

Orchard owners often experience similar problems. Deer can literally wipe out a grove of small fruit trees. Befriending farmers trying to reduce deer damage is one of the best ways to pinpoint farm-country whitetail hotspots.

You may find additional farmland hunting areas on public grounds by inquiring with your state wildlife agency. Many publicly owned properties encompass agricultural lands that are part of the overall management plan. Hunting pressure tends to be much greater on these areas, however, and special permits may be required to hunt. When other options fall through, though, public lands provide opportunities that might otherwise be missed.

Etiquette is Important

Serious whitetail hunters know it’s best to start the search for a hunting area well before the season. When seeking private land hunting opportunities, don’t drive up to the door on the first day and ask if you can hunt the woods behind a farmer’s house. Visit the landowner well in advance of the season. Quite often, if you can prove you’re a responsible hunter, you can get permission to hunt, perhaps even on land that is posted.

That visiting hunters should treat a farmer’s property with respect goes without saying, but don’t overlook other courtesies that will help assure you’ll be welcomed back when hunting season rolls around again. Time and time again, I’ve heard farmers complain that hunters never think of them until deer season. A Christmas gift, birthday card, some flowers for the wife, a present for the kids or an offer to help with farm work all do a great deal for cultivating good hunter-farmer relations.

Share your success with the farmer, too. Most landowners who welcome you on their property also take an interest in the hunt. Even if he doesn’t want any of the venison (make sure to offer a share anyway), he’s probably watched your deer while working his land. It’s part of the farm, and sharing your success with the landowner makes him feel appreciated.

How to Hunt Farmland

Big bucks often rest long hours and feed on food sources convenient to their bedding areas. And as winter comes on, the bucks feel a pressing need to nourish themselves in preparation for the hard times ahead. Gradually, their daily routine shifts. They venture out farther and farther from their core areas in search of quality food. If preferred agricultural crops are in the area, you can be sure that most bucks eventually will end up feeding there.

Emphasis usually should be placed on hunting deer trails between bedding areas and crop fields. To determine the location of bedding areas, look for and follow well-used trails leading away from the perimeter of a crop field. It’s best to enter these areas alone and quietly. When you begin to hit really dense cover, you’re probably entering the bedding areas, especially if you jump some deer while scouting. It’s not a good idea to push the deer because it might spook them from the area. So when you have jumped a deer, back up and leave.

How close you set up to a bedding area should be determined by when you’ll be hunting. If you plan to hunt mornings only, stay close to the bedding area. That way you can catch deer when they are coming back from the feeding areas. If you set up too close to the feeding areas in the morning, you will only see deer when it’s too dark to shoot.

If you plan to hunt only in the late afternoon, stay a little closer to the feeding areas. Don’t hunt right on the edge of the field though because then you’ll probably only see deer after shooting hours are over. Set up somewhere between the bedding and feeding areas, and you can catch the deer when they are coming out for their evening meal.

If, like many hunters, you prefer to hunt on the edge of a farm field rather than in the woods, select a spot for your stand that is near a main deer route to or from the field. Your first scouting trip around the edge of a grain or alfalfa field may reveal enough deer tracks to give you the shakes. But don’t let this confuse you. Careful scouting will reveal a main route for entering and leaving the field.

It also is best to choose a hunting spot that offers good cover going to and from your stand, so farmland deer won’t be as likely to notice your entry and exit.

Still-hunting can be effective as well if conditions are right. Hunt to the last legal minute of the day, and be in position in the morning before first light. Try to find bottlenecks or other physical features that help funnel a buck your way.

When you do find an area to hunt, it’s a mistake to think that taking farmland deer is easy. In fact, whitetails haunting agricultural areas are sometimes much harder to collect than their cousins in wilder territory. Nevertheless, hunters who invest heavily in pre-season scouting to learn the day-to-day habits of their quarry can enjoy a bountiful harvest on these often overlooked deer lands.

Woodland hunting will probably always be the mainstay for most whitetail fans, but if you are seeking a new tack to spice up your outings this year, give farmland deer hunting a try. Prime farm country offers some of our nation’s best hunting for big, healthy deer.

written by Keith Sutton

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Going backpacking doesn’t mean you have to leave your fishing rod at home. Even though you’ll be without a boat when trekking through the wilderness, you can still take advantage of the area’s angling opportunities if you properly plan your route and pack some fishing gear.

Accessing Unfrequented Waters

One of the great benefits about fishing on hiking treks is you’ll be able to access waters that receive minimal fishing pressure. When plotting hiking routes, look carefully and hike paths that run parallel to waterways. Although there is sometimes some bushwhacking required to get to the water’s edge, choose routes that will lead you to water, so to speak. A good start is reviewing maps of the area you’ll be hiking.

Do Your Homework

Like fishing any new water, do some research before the first cast. Getting topographic and hydrographic maps of the area will help you plot an appropriate course. Although much is said about the qualities of hydrographic maps for fishers on foot, topographic maps are equally as important.

Topographic maps help you judge the terrain of the landscape. This way you know if the four mile hike is a leisurely walk or an aggressive decent down a hill to get to a small stream. Take your research a step further by overlaying information on the type of fish stocked or present in the water and use this information to choose your fishing gear. Make sure you also pack a compass for navigation when hiking and exploring angling opportunities. GPS units are handy but batteries can fail, so a compass is a must have back up.

Get Details from Park Staff

When hiking in parks and natural reserves, it’s a good idea to talk with park staff or local experts about fishing opportunities. They’ll tell you what lakes offer good fishing and which ones are best to avoid. You also might get tips on some secret fishing spots or advice on good bait to use.

It pays off to make these questions part of your trip planning. This way if the person you’re dealing with isn’t angling savvy, they might recommend someone else who’s more of a fisher in the area, like a guide or tackle shop owner.

When speaking with park staff, it’s also important to make sure traveling off hiking paths is permitted. Wilderness areas tend to allow this, while some parks prefer that you don’t bushwhack and that you stay on pre-established trails. Of course, once you get along the shoreline exploration is often easy.

Choosing and Packing a Rod and Reel

If you’re on a multi-day hiking trip, the overall weight of your backpack is important, so keep your fishing-related weight to a minimum. Here are some tips to stay light.

First, invest in a quality travel rod. Spinning or baitcast rods usually come in 3- to 4-piece kits, while fly-fishing rods are comprised of more pieces. Usually the rod comes with a travel case. Some rod and reel kits come together in one case, but these are more bulky and meant for travels where space isn’t a major issue.

When hiking, it’s best to have the rod in the smallest tube case possible. Often you can secure it on one side of your pack using straps. Keep the reel in its own case and pack it separately. A soft reel case packs easier and is less bulky.

Also, to keep the weight down and minimize required space, consider an ultra-light or light action rod. Rods are light regardless, but by going with a light action one you’ll shed a few ounces on the reel’s weight and reduce bulk.

Tackle: Less is Best

One of the biggest challenges for anglers is downsizing tackle for an outing. In wilderness hiking, one seldom has the choice whether to pack light or not. Your best bet is packing lures that catch multi-species fish. Also pack your confidence baits too.

Fly anglers are lucky as their terminal tackle is light and compact. It’s easy to pack a few dozen dry and wet flies in a fly box and be prepared for most fishing situations. As long as you can accommodate the carrying case, fly fishing tackle adds little overall weight to your backpack and is a good way to integrate angling into your hiking adventures.

Spinning and baitcast anglers have more of a challenge. Although, as already noted, going with a light action rod is a good solution to keep weight down. Consider only packing light baits, such as inline spinners, floating minnow baits and topwater baits. You should still include some jigs and soft plastics if you have the space. Store these baits in a small tackle tray that will fit in a cargo pant or jacket pocket.

It’s also a good idea to pack floats, hooks and sinkers for live bait fishing. Live bait is a sure way to match the hatch. With a bit of exploring, like overturning rocks and logs, you can easily find crayfish, nightcrawlers and other bait to tip a hook. If using bait, make sure you check the fishing regulations for the area. Pack a small container to carry the bait in as well.

Consider Clothing

If you’re a serious hiker, most of your clothing will work when adding angling to your treks. If you have the option, opt for a backpack with a removable fanny pack or smaller bag. This way, you can leave your larger bag at camp or on the shore, and travel light when exploring the fishing opportunities.

Convertible pants are a good option for wading. The full-length legs will provide you with protection if bushwhacking. Once you find the water’s edge, you can zip off the bottom-legs and wade in to knee level. Of course, it’s best to wear hiking boots to protect your toes on the trails, so carry a pair of sandals for wading. Wading a few feet from shore is a simple way to avoid snagging trees and other hazards when casting.

Other important clothing items include sunglasses, wide-brimmed hats, and quick-dry clothing.

Cooking the Catch

There’s nothing like the taste of fresh fish. It tastes even better when cooked over a campfire and enjoyed outside, so don’t forget to pack a fillet knife. You might also want to pick up a wilderness cookbook for tips on various ways to prepare fish in the outdoors when traveling light. Really though, some butter, a dash of salt and pepper, and a hot pan is all you really need.

Take a travel rod and explore the nearby water on your next backpacking trip. You’ll likely find the resident fish willing to bite. The payoff of catching and cooking a few fish on the trail is well worth weight added to your pack from a rod, reel and a few lures.

written by Tim Allard

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Dealing with insects is a given for anglers and hunters as our activities regularly put us in bad bug situations. West Nile virus, Lyme disease and allergic-reaction-causing stings are all potential dangers inflicted by biting and stinging insects, but they shouldn’t stop us from enjoying the outdoors. Learning more about prevention through precaution and protection is the best safety measure you can follow this bug season.

Mosquitoes and West Nile Virus

West Nile virus (WNV) is passed to humans via the bite of an infected mosquito. Most individuals who contract WNV have mild flu-like symptoms, while others show no symptoms at all. Individuals with fragile immune systems or chronic diseases could face serious health problems if they contract the virus.

Proper clothing is your first line of defense against mosquitoes. Mosquitoes are attracted to dark colors, so wear light colored clothing and cover as much skin as possible. When mosquitoes are swarming, increase your defenses by wearing bug shirts, mesh head nets, and insect-repellent clothing.

Bug sprays containing federally approved ingredients will protect uncovered skin. For most anglers and hunters, using sprays with DEET is standard in heavily infested bug areas. The concentration of DEET in repellants provides users with varying quantities of protection; the higher the percentage of DEET, the longer the protection. A DEET concentration of 15% will provide roughly five hours of protection, while 5% will offer you two hours of armor. Most repellants come in spray bottles, but towelettes are a relatively new alternative and are easily stored in tackle boxes and glove compartments.

Black Flies, Deer Flies and No-See-Ums

Many spring fishing trips corresponding with the arrival of black flies have turned ugly, causing unprepared anglers to swat themselves silly and turn the air blue with words unmentionable in this article. Although black fly bites aren’t painful, the post-bite itch screams for scratching, and their incessant swarming will test your mental resolve. The best protection against black flies is wearing the same light-colored, full-length clothing you would wear to ward off mosquitoes and to apply insect repellent to exposed skin.

Deer flies are just as tenacious as black flies; however, they pack a painful bite as well. Covering skin and using repellants can sometimes deter deer flies, but not always. In this case, the Tred-Not Deerfly Patch is a simple, chemical-free counter-strike to these pesky bugs. Place the patch on the back of a hat with its sticky, flesh-colored side up. The flies are attracted to the patch’s skin color and become stuck to the patch once they land. As flies often attack the highest flesh-colored area on their victims, the patch should always be placed on the back of your hat. Two patches constitute a week’s supply.

No-See-Ums are frustrating foes. They include sand flies, biting midges, and other miniscule bugs that inflict a painful bite. Small enough to pass through screens, these bugs can quickly ruin a great trip once they start biting. Applying insect repellants and covering as much skin with fine mesh clothing will fend off these critters.

Ticks and Lyme Disease

Lyme disease is transmitted to humans from the bite of an infected deer tick. Early symptoms may seem flu-like, but if left untreated or undiagnosed, Lyme disease will affect many of the body’s systems: brain, nervous, cardiovascular, digestive, respiratory, and musco-skeletal. Not all ticks are infected, and only those that carry the Lyme spirochete, or bacteria, in their saliva can transmit the disease. In some areas Lyme disease is considered endemic. In these areas, Lyme disease is established and cycling in nature. That doesn’t mean non-endemic areas aren’t affected though. Each year, infected ticks are distributed randomly to northern areas, transported by migratory birds from southern endemic areas.

Ticks reside in natural corridors and moist, leafy or wooded areas, waiting to latch onto a host for a blood meal. Covering skin is a must. Tuck pants into socks (some seal this joint with duct tape) and wear high fitting boots. Long-sleeved shirts with tight fitting cuffs and gloves will protect the upper body. Applying repellants to exposed skin will reduce the chances of tick bites.

Permethrin sprays can be applied to clothing and tents and will kill ticks (as well as other bugs) on contact. When applied to clothing, Permethrin will bind to the fabric reducing the risk of over-exposure to the skin. Permethrin should not be applied to skin. To increase the longevity of the repellent’s protection, store Permethrin-treated clothing in plastic bags between uses.

Once home, perform a tick inspection and remove ticks immediately if located. In the spring, ticks will be the size of a poppy seed and by late summer they can be the size of a sesame seed. The best way to remove a tick is with a very fine-nosed set of tweezers, so make sure you carry these in your first aid kit. Using the tweezers, grab the tick as closely to your skin as possible and pull away from your skin. Do not twist the tick or pull too hard to separate it. Once removed, clean the area with anti-septic. Keep the tick in a container. If you experience symptoms of Lyme disease (headache, fever, muscle or joint pain, light sensitivity, or a bulls-eye skin rash) see a doctor immediately, and bring the tick with you for testing.

Hornets, Wasps and Bees

Avoidance is the best practice around stinging bugs as insect repellants do not deter them. Keep clear of nests and hives. Accidentally disturbing these domiciles can result in being attacked and stung. Many people also get stung when these bugs become trapped in clothing, and then sting out of panic or fear. To avoid picking up these stingers, tuck in pant legs and wear shirts with snug-fitting cuffs.

Individuals with severe allergies to stings should carry EpiPens, which is an auto-injector that administers epinephrine to prevent anaphylactic shock. These individuals should use EpiPens directly after a sting and get to a hospital immediately. If you or someone in your party gets stung, it’s important to monitor them and watch the speed and severity of the body’s reaction. This is important as many people will develop allergies as they age.

Severe reactions require immediate hospital attention. Symptoms include difficulty breathing, swelling of the tongue and skin eruptions. An intermediate reaction usually involves swelling that travels from the sting site to other areas of the body. If swelling travels to the neck and affects breathing, it’s vital to get to a hospital.

Redness, swelling and pain in the sting area are normal, even for those not allergic to stings. The sting site can be treated with a thick paste made from baking soda and clean water. Bread can also be used. Cover the paste with gauze and allow it to dry. The drying process will actually draw out toxins from the sting or bite. An ice pack or cold compress can also be used to reduce swelling, but be careful not to wet the paste.

For the most part, bugs are mere annoyances that occasionally pack a painful bite. But West Nile virus, Lyme disease and the allergic reactions to stings are good reasons for safeguarding yourself against bugs this season. Just be sure to carry the proper gear to prevent bites and handle stings. Knowing you possess the skills and tools to counter such “buzz kills” will allow you to enjoy the outdoors instead of fretting over those pintsized pests.

written by Tim Allard

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Food never tastes better than when cooked outdoors. And nothing quite highlights a fun campout like your favorite foods prepared using special outdoor cooking methods.

Modern camp cooking can be much like cooking at home. Push a button to light the camp stove or gas grill, or start a charcoal fire, and you’re ready to prepare a hot, delicious meal. For many of us, however, camp cooking means campfire cooking. We enjoy preparing foods the old-fashioned way — over the aromatic hardwood coals of an outdoor fire.

To make your next excursion especially memorable, try the following camp cookery methods. All are easy ways to serve up mouth-watering meals for hungry campers.

Dutch ovens, once called “bake kettles,” originated in the early 18th century. By the mid-1700s, nearly all American families were cooking in Dutch ovens on home hearths and campfires.

Today’s Dutch ovens differ little from early models. Each is a large deep pot with a tight-fitting lid. Three short legs support the whole affair over coals. The lid has a raised rim to retain coals placed on the lid. With this arrangement-coals on top and coals beneath-the oven can be evenly heated. Old-time ovens were heavy cast iron, but now you can purchase lighter aluminum ones, too.

Seasoning a new cast-iron Dutch oven is important. First, clean the oven in hot sudsy water to remove any factory coating. Then rub salt-free shortening or cooking oil on all surfaces, and heat the oven for an hour or two with low heat. This can be done with your home oven set at 250-300 degrees or with a few campfire coals set on top of and beneath the Dutch oven. Allow the oven to cool, and coat it lightly with cooking oil to prevent rusting.

Preheat your Dutch oven before baking by placing a few coals over and under for several minutes. This helps keep food from sticking. Place the food directly in the oven, or in a pan or aluminum foil wrapper set inside. I like cooking large cuts of meat, soups and stews, and boiled or steamed vegetables, directly in the oven. Foil cups are good containers for muffins. When making a cake or pie, I use a pan in the oven, elevated slightly with two metal tent pins or nails placed underneath.

Coals are placed under the oven, and on top, when cooking. Generally, when making dishes with high liquid content, such as stews and soups, place two-thirds of the coals beneath and one-third on top. When baking, reverse these proportions: one-third beneath and two-thirds on top. When using charcoal briquettes for baking, I usually place six or seven under a 12-inch oven and 12-15 on top, replenishing these with new briquettes as needed.

Regulate the heat if necessary by adding or taking away coals. I build a small fire beside the oven from which to shovel on fresh coals. Check cooking progress by lifting the lid with tongs or a hook.

Remember, too, that Dutch ovens are not just for baking. They work well for pan frying, broiling, and deep-frying as well. The lid can be inverted and used as a griddle.

Dutch ovens are naturals for one-pot meals, but if you want to get spoiled, try the luxury of a whole battery of ovens: one for meat, one for vegetables, others for bread, pie, cake, cobbler, you name it. This is real living!

Here are two recipes to try:

Steak Casserole

4 pounds steak (venison or beef), cut in one-inch cubes

1/2-cup butter

2 medium onions, sliced

1 pound fresh mushrooms, stems removed

1/2-cup flour

1 cup dry red wine

2 (10.5-ounce) cans condensed onion soup

2 soup cans water

Salt, black pepper

In a Dutch oven, saute venison cubes in butter until brown on all sides. Add onions and mushrooms; saute until vegetables are wilted. Sprinkle with flour. Stir in wine, soup and water. Stir to blend. Cover and place on coals at edge of campfire. Add coals to the oven lid. Cook 1-1/2 to 2 hours for steak. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Pineapple Upside-Down Cake

1 (18-oz.) package yellow cake mix

Eggs, milk or other ingredients needed to prepare cake mix

3 tablespoons melted butter

1/2-cup brown sugar

1 (16-oz.) can sliced pineapple

Prepare the cake mix in a large bowl per package instructions. Preheat the Dutch oven. Into a 10-inch round cake pan, pour the melted butter then sprinkle on the sugar. Briefly place the pan in the oven to melt the sugar and create the glaze. Remove the pan and place pineapple slices over the glaze. Pour the cake batter over this until the pan is slightly less than full, and set the pan in the oven atop some pebbles or metal tent pins. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the cake comes out clean. Allow to cool 15 minutes then invert onto a plate.

Reflector Ovens

The reflector oven is a wonderful gizmo for camp cookery. It’s simple to use, inexpensive and does a professional job of baking biscuits, pies, cakes, cookies, pizza, casseroles and other foods.

Reflector ovens were first widely used in the late 1700s. At that time, they were called “tin kitchens” or “hasteners” and were used for cooking on the home hearth. Modern reflector ovens closely resemble these early cooking aids.

Reflector ovens offer several advantages over Dutch ovens. For one thing, the sheet-metal (usually aluminum) reflector oven is lightweight and collapsible. The one I use is a compact 14″ x 14″ x 1/2″ when folded and weighs a mere 2 pounds. It easily fits in a backpack or under a truck seat and requires less than a minute to assemble or disassemble. Its services compensate for its relatively slight additional weight, and almost anything I bake in a Dutch oven can be ready quicker using the reflector.

Dutch ovens require a bed of hot coals for proper cooking. Reflector ovens, on the other hand, work best with a high, flaming fire. A pile of pine branches feeds the fire quite nicely, and in minutes, you’re preparing a baked feast fit for royalty.

The principle by which reflector ovens work is simple. Heat from the open fire is reflected from the shiny interior of the oven. The reflector’s slanting top and bottom direct the heat toward the top and bottom of the pan of food being baked, allowing it to brown evenly on upper and lower surfaces. If the cooking temperature seems too hot or too cold, you can move the oven backward or forward to adjust it. If the food cooks unevenly on the sides, rotate the pan.

The best fire for the reflector is a teepee fire built to the height of the oven’s cooking shelf. If two reflector ovens are available, place them across the fire from each other so the ovens are facing. This provides maximum reflection of heat.

When cooking with a reflector oven, a certain instinct must replace the clearly defined formulas of conventional baking. Variables like air temperature, wind velocity and fire design can make things difficult for the inexperienced camp cook. But by following a few simple tips, much of the frustration of reflector cooking can be eliminated.

Begin by selecting a flat surface on which to place the oven and build the fire. If necessary, make minor adjustments to compensate for sloping or bumpy ground.

Next, gather an ample supply of firewood. Sticks one to two inches in diameter are best. Larger wood should be split. Softwoods like pine burn hot and fast, ideal for reflector cooking.

Place food on a pan or piece of foil that fits the shelf of the reflector oven, and position the oven near the fire. Knowing just where to place the oven so it heats to the right temperature is the key to good cooking. An oven thermometer on the food shelf helps. But you can also guess the temperature with reasonable accuracy by holding your hand just in front of the oven. If you can hold it there for seven to 10 seconds, the temperature is near 200 degrees; six seconds, 300 degrees; three to four seconds, 400 degrees; one to two seconds, 500 degrees.

After five minutes, check the food to be sure it’s cooking properly. If the top is browning faster than the bottom, the fire is too large. If foods are browner on bottom than on top, the fire is too small. Make adjustments as necessary.

Carry two thick potholders or heavy gloves for moving the oven and handling the food. Most reflector ovens also have a back flap that can be opened to check the food.

Now that you know how to cook, all you need are recipes to try.  Here are some of my favorites.

Cheese-Garlic Biscuits

2 cups Bisquick baking mix

2/3-cup milk

1/2-cup shredded cheddar cheese

1/2 cup margarine or butter, melted

1/4-teaspoon garlic powder

Mix Bisquick, milk and cheese until a soft dough forms. Beat vigorously 30 seconds. Drop dough by spoonfuls onto a sheet of lightly greased aluminum foil cut to fit the shelf of your reflector oven. Bake 8-10 minutes or till golden brown. Mix margarine and garlic powder; brush over tops of warm biscuits.

Easy Cobbler

3/4 cup melted butter

1-cup sugar

1-cup flour

2/3-cup milk

1 large can sliced fruit

Pour butter in 8-inch square casserole. Combine sugar, flour and milk. Pour over butter. Add fruit. Bake until golden brown.

Little Pizzas

English muffins

Pizza sauce

Grated mozzarella cheese

Your favorite pizza toppings

Lightly brown muffins in the reflector oven. Spread pizza sauce on each half. Crown with cheese and your favorite toppings. Heat on foil until the cheese is bubbly.

Foil Cookery

Aluminum foil can be used to prepare sealed packets of food to cook on campfire coals or a grill. Heavy-duty aluminum foil is preferred, because it’s thicker and less likely to be punctured. Lightweight foil can be used in double or triple thicknesses.

One important facet of foil cookery is sealing the food packets tightly to retain steam and juices, and, at the same time, exclude dirt and ashes. This is accomplished by using a “drugstore” wrap.

Tear off a piece of foil twice as long as you want the completed food package to be. Lay the foil flat, place the food on top, and fold the foil in half so the food is between the folded pieces. Then, beginning where the two end edges meet, make a 1/2-inch fold and firmly press this, sealing the seam. Then fold the seam over two more times, 1/2 inch at a time, and press to seal. The two open ends are then sealed in the same manner, and the packet is ready for cooking.

When cooking meats and fish, seal packages so there’s little or no air space between foil and food. Close contact between food, foil, and fire helps brown the food. In cooking vegetables or other foods; however, it may be preferable to “tent” the foil over the food. The extra air space allows the package to act like a pressure cooker, steaming the food until it is done without browning it. One or two tablespoons of water or broth added to each package enhance the flavor and produce a more tender, moist meal.

When cooking directly in campfire coals, add a second foil wrap over the first so the package is less likely to get punctured. When you remove the outer wrap, the inside package will still be clean, and the opened foil can be used as a plate or serving dish.

The manner in which you place the food packets in the fire depends on the heat of the fire and how fast or slow you want the foods to cook. If the coals are very hot, place the foil packs on top of a few coals, turning when half-cooked; or position them beside the coals and tilt the broad side of the packets toward the fire using sticks or rocks to prop them up. If the coals aren’t too hot, you may want to bury the packets in coals so there’s no need to turn them.

Barbecue tongs or a long stick can be used to turn foil packets so both sides cook evenly, and to remove the packets from the fire when they’re done. Foil cools quickly when removed from the coals, but gloves may prevent blisters when opening the packages. To open the food, tear the folded ends or snip the top and pull open. Use care so escaping steam doesn’t burn your face or hands.

Foil-cooked foods are a special treat. The following recipes will get you started, but try your own ideas as well. Tasting new dishes you created is the fun of foil cookery.

Baked Apples

Several apples

Sugar

Cinnamon

Butter

Wash and core apples, preparing one or two per serving. Sprinkle sugar and cinnamon inside the hole, then add a pat of butter. Double wrap apples loosely in foil with a little bit of added water. Cover loosely with coals on top and beneath, and bake for about 20-30 minutes.

Foiled Again Fish Fillets

20 saltine crackers, crushed to a fine meal

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

1/4-cup butter or margarine

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4-cup lemon or lime juice

2 pounds fish fillets

Combine cracker meal, parsley and dill; set aside. Melt butter in a skillet and saute garlic 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in lemon juice. Brush fish with this mixture and place on a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil, shiny side inside. Toss remaining lemon-garlic-butter with cracker meal mix. Spoon over fish. Seal foil packet, and cook over coals 8 to 10 minutes, turning once, or until fish flakes easily with a fork.

written by Keith Sutton

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