OSAGE BEACH–A little caution by boaters over the Memorial Day weekend could save a lot of trouble and expense for Missourians in the long run. The thumbnail-sized invader from Eurasia has galloped across much of North America in two decades and now has footholds in several Missouri waters. The only hope of slowing its spread lies in caution by boaters.
Zebra mussels cause several kinds of trouble. For one thing, they alter the ecology of waters they infest by competing with native fish and other animals for food. Their habit of attaching themselves to any solid object dooms native mussels, which are smothered by dense encrustations of the prolific invaders.Zebra mussels have a hefty price tag for property owners, too. They weigh down docks, buoys and other objects exposed to water. Large numbers of mussels attached to boat hulls increase water drag, leading to higher fuel costs. Their tiny larvae, called “veligers,” get inside marine engines, live wells and water lines, requiring maintenance and creating a danger of damage due to overheating.Zebra mussels also drive up utility bills by clogging water intakes of public and private utilities. Keeping those pipes open requires millions of dollars of maintenance annually.And zebra mussels are only one of a growing number of invasive aquatic plants and animals that can hitch rides to previously uninfested waters on boats and other marine equipment. An alert marina worker averted a zebra mussel infestation at Lake of the Ozarks in 2000 when he spotted thousands of tiny zebra mussels on the hull of a cabin cruiser brought to Missouri from out of state. Not everyone was so vigilant, however, for in 2006 marina workers, boaters and Conservation Department workers discovered zebra mussels at several locations in Lake of the Ozarks.

Today, Lake of the Ozarks has dozens of known infestation sites. The pests also have turned up in Lake Taneycomo, Bull Shoals Lake and in the Osage River below Bagnell Dam. Most recently, zebra mussels have been discovered in the Missouri River in the Kansas City and Chamois areas. No one has discovered an affordable way to eradicate the mussels once they are established in a lake or stream. Consequently, state officials can only hope to contain their spread to where they already exist and monitor other waters for new infestations. Boaters are in a position to do more, however. Measures every Missouri angler and boater can take prevent the further spread of zebra mussel include:

· Thoroughly inspecting hulls, drive units, trim plates, transducers and other submerged portions of boats for adult zebra mussels after each use. Adults are fingernail sized with dark and light stripes. Small zebra mussels give hard surfaces a sandpapery feel.

· Examining crevices and recessed areas around motor housings, trim tabs and behind water intake screens on motors’ lower units.

· Checking trailers, ropes, minnow buckets and anything else that was in the water. Report any suspected zebra mussels to the nearest Conservation Department office.

· Removing all suspected zebra mussels, along with vegetation or other material clinging to boats and trailers and put it in a trash container.

· Rinsing boat bilges, trailers, motor drive units and live wells before launching them in another location helps prevent transferring microscopic zebra mussel larvae. Use water at least 104 degrees if live zebra mussels are found, or if your craft has been in waters known to be infested with zebra mussels. Most commercial car washes meet this standard.

· After rinsing, allow boats and other equipment to dry in the sun for at least five days before re-launching in a different lake or stream. Some measures that help prevent the spread of zebra mussels also aid in stopping other aquatic pests, including the rusty crayfish and Asian carp. One of the best things anglers can do is dispose of live bait properly. Put unused bait in trash bags and deposit it in trash receptacles away from water. Never release unused bait – whether fish, worms, crayfish or anything else – into lakes or streams.

Boaters can prevent invasive plants and animals from hitching a ride by draining all water from bilges and live wells and removing vegetation and other trash from boats and trailers when they move them from one body of water to another. More information about invasive aquatic species prevention is available at visit www.protectyourwaters.net/.
-Jim Low-

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Begin filling your photo album full of images that will make you proud.

Fishing Photography Basics
Red is an excellent color for anglers to wear on the water — it really adds that “WOW” effect to your photos.

For the most part, anyone who fishes usually does so with a camera in tow.  Capturing the beauty of a precise moment will ensure that you never forget the sheer enjoyment that you encountered while in the outdoors.  (Plus a breathtaking photo can secure bragging rights when gleefully shown to your peers and family!)  Taking a perfect fishing photo doesn’t have to be rocket science, although the skill can be easily achieved by following a few rules and preparing the scene before making that fateful “click.”  Come and explore the magic that the camera holds, and begin filling your photo album full of images that will make you proud.

Variety is the Spice of Life

For the most part, an average fishing photo consists of a happy angler posing proudly with their prized catch in an outstretched hand.  Although there is nothing wrong with an image of this type, being creative while out on the water will truly make your photo album come alive.

One of the main rules I follow while undergoing a photo shoot is to “move around.”  Instead of standing at the back of the boat and clicking away, try different angles and positions to enhance the shot.  Get down low in front of your subject, or shoot from above the angler to add a different element to the image.  One of my favorite tricks is to actually get out of the boat to snap away.  Setting up on shore, or on a dock and shooting towards the angler and boat will provide an interesting backdrop for a scene.  Take a variety of photos, both from far away and in close, of the fisherman fighting the fish or releasing it over the side of the gunnel.  Believe me, the results will amaze you!

Fishing Snap Shots
Action shots help tell the story, while adding some excitement to those mundane “grip-and-grin” images.
Another interesting thing to do with your camera is to take close-up pictures of the fish themselves.  Fill the frame of a print with the wondrous and breathtaking colours of a sunfish.  Or how about a close-up of a “hawg” largemouth bass about to be released into a carpet of lily pads?  Many of my shots that do not even include a human being are the most memorable and meaningful to me.

Sprucing up a photograph or “bringing life” to your subject can be readily achieved through numerous small adjustments.  Keeping the lure in the fish’s mouth will add color contrast, thereby giving your image that extra punch.  (It also creates a permanent record of what your trophy fish fell prey to.)  What the angler is wearing can also make or break a photo, and is an important consideration I examine before each shot I take.  There are certain colors that stand out and “perform” best on film — red, yellow and blue being my top three to work with.  If your subject is wearing clothes of one of these shades will add contrast and variety to the end result.  In addition, making the effort to wear different garments, or fishing hats in your photos will give each shot individuality and impact — two things that suffer when every image in your album looks identical to the next.

Using your flash or “fill flash” will brighten up both your subject, and will make the fish in the photo come alive.  This can also help in reducing the annoying shadows that can often appear in photos, especially around the face area of the angler.

Background

One of the easiest ways to make a more striking photograph is to have a pleasing backdrop behind your scene.  Before taking that first shot, look around in all directions to see which area would make a more interesting addition to your masterpiece.  Radiant fall colors on the trees are a personal favorite of mine, as are emergent cattails and vegetation.  One point to keep in mind when shooting around trees, make sure that the branch is not “magically” sprouting out of your subjects head!  I have made this mistake myself in the past, and it has easily ruined what would have been a perfect shot.  If you have a livewell in your boat, it is as easy as keeping your catch inside while finding a suitable background for the shot.  Try to find something that will catch the viewer’s eye — an old boathouse, a broken down dock or a shoreline of thick underbrush.

Fishing Photography
Close-ups of the fish make excellent additions to the photo album.

The sun can be a prime enemy while shooting fishing photos, due to the shadows it casts or the “washed-out” appearance it creates.  There are a number of ways to get around this, the simplest being its position.  When taking a photograph, try to keep the sun behind yourself and in front of your subject.  This will brighten the scene and lighten any shadows that might be evident on the image.  A mid-day sun can be very harsh, and will often leave your finished photograph overexposed.  A cure for this would be to concentrate more on morning and evening periods when the sun casts a more beautiful and stunning hue.  Early morning is the time when some of my more striking images have been shot.

Try to stay away from shooting photos of your subject on shore or in their kitchen with an obvious dead fish.  There is nothing wrong with keeping a fish for the table, but photos of this nature seem too unnatural to give them any merit.  The same goes for shots of fish on stringers — a definite no-no in this day-and-age of catch and release.  If you do use a stringer to transport your fish, take them off before you do the same with your lens cap.

One other tip to consider when out taking pictures would be to document the entire day, not just the moment a fish is caught.  How about taking a picture of the boat being launched, or the Great Blue Heron you pass by on the way to your secret honey-hole.  Recording the events leading up to the big catch will tie the whole storyline nicely together.

Equipment

Although I lug around big zoom lenses and tripods for many of my assignments, the everyday angler can get by nicely with a simple, good-quality 35mm camera.  Some key components to keep an eye out for would be a built-in zoom lens, a fill-flash function and a sturdy and rugged body.  Couple this up with high-quality film and you are ready to get shooting.  Stay away from cheap film as the color saturation and picture quality is inferior to the respected brand names.  By spending a bit of extra money on your film, you can ensure that the end result will be well worth the slight expenditure.  Remember, you are only given one chance to capture a moment in time.  By using reputable equipment and film, your chances of succeeding will go up ten-fold.

Fishing Photography
Shots such as this put you smack dab in the action!

Keeping your camera in a waterproof bag while on board a boat will ensure that it doesn’t meet an untimely demise due to the elements.  Water can easily ruin film and camera bodies, so pay special attention while out in the float, and always wear a camera strap for added security and peace of mind.

One last tip I have for those people that drive all the way to the lake, and then realize that they have forgotten their camera at home.  Keep an inexpensive throwaway camera either in your tackle box or in your boat storage.  These little cameras can take surprisingly good quality pictures, and can literally save the day when a big fish, and absentmindedness, strike at the same time.  Again, keep this camera in a waterproof bag and forget about it until the time when it might be needed.

Remember the Health of the Fish

Keeping a fish out of the water for extended periods while taking photographs can be detrimental to its health, so a few precautions should be taken while filming.  Take a deep breath and hold it when taking your prized catch out of the water; when you need to take another breath, so does your finny friend, and it should be placed back in the water at that time.  Livewells come in handy for photography as the fish can be placed in it when need be.

Use extra care when handling the fish to ensure that none of its protective slime is removed.  It goes without saying not to let your fish fall or bang around in the bottom of the boat.  Treating fish with kindness will enable you to get the shot you want while protecting our valuable ecosystem in the process.

Fish photography is a wonderful hobby that yields astonishing results for those willing to try it.  A picture certainly is worth a thousand words, and hopefully you can begin writing your own chapter this season while out immortalizing your catch on paper.

written by Justin Hoffman

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When you hook a catfish, you better hold on. This customer is tough, mean, feisty and smart to boot.

Fish, worms, crawdads, liver, and reeking confections of blood and guts are the blue-plate specials for catfish.

Some folks will tell you that the largemouth bass, with its hit ‘em hard, tail-walking fighting style, is our finest sportfish. Others believe it’s the colorful, acrobatic trout, the good-things-come-in-small-packages bluegill, the scrappy crappie or numerous other gamefishes, each of which holds a special attraction for its own group of fanatical devotees. For seven million anglers, however, the undisputed monarch of all polebenders is the catfish.

Catfishing isn’t a flashy sport. You don’t need a fancy boat or magforce powerbuster rods. High-tech reels and Volkswagen-sized suitcases full of pretty lures aren’t necessary.

Fish, worms, crawdads, liver and reeking confections of blood and guts are the blue-plate specials for catfish. Inexpensive tackle can replace the snazzy gear, and you catch cats from the bank as easily as from a boat.

Glamorous? Hardly. But don’t be misled. When you hook a catfish, you better hold on. This customer is tough, mean, feisty and smart to boot. Smash ‘em, bash ‘em, bang ‘em up: that’s the catfish’s game.

Want to hook a true lunker? A fish over 25 pounds, say? Then catfishing better be on your angling itinerary. A few other fish are caught over 20 pounds, but not regularly. If I were an oddsmaker, I’d lay 3-to-1 odds on big cats, and 100-to-1 on all other lunkers. Catfish may be the best table fish of all. And more importantly, catfish occur in stupendous numbers in wide spectrum of waters throughout the U.S. Many blue-ribbon catfish waters are almost untouched by catfish anglers and their offerings.

The Players

There are four major members of the catfish family in North America: the flathead catfish, blue cat, channel cat and bullhead.

The flathead frequents large rivers, bayous and reservoirs. It’s incredibly ugly-pot-bellied, wide-headed and beady-eyed, but what it lacks in good looks, it makes up for in size. Most will average 3-10 pounds, but 25-50 pounders aren’t rare, and flatheads up to 123 pounds have been caught on rod and reel.

The blue catfish rivals the flathead in size and can weigh nearly 120 pounds. It, too, prefers the sanctuary of larger rivers and reservoirs, and, like the channel cat, is usually caught over bottoms of rock, gravel or sand.

The channel catfish resembles the blue but seldom grows larger than 15 pounds. The world record, a real giant, tipped the scales at 58. Channel cats love streams and rivers, but millions are produced at fish hatcheries each year and stocked in lakes and ponds as well.

Bullheads are found throughout much of the U.S. Because of their small size (they seldom exceed two or three pounds) many anglers don’t target them. But in some Midwestern states such as Iowa, they’re the number one sportfish. Many anglers caught the catfishing bug while fishing for bullheads as a child.

Baitcasting reels provide a lot of power for cranking in big fish.

Rods and Reels

Catfishermen probably use a wider variety of rods and reels than any group of sport fishermen, everything from tiny spinning outfits that fit under a car seat to super-long surf-casting rods with enormous reels.

If you spend most of your time dabbling for bullheads, an ultralight spinning outfit works great. If channel cats are your quarry, and you fish waters where 5- to 10-pounders sometimes surface, a 6-foot, medium-action bass-fishing combo may be the ticket to satisfaction. If you’re hoping to bring in one of the 100-pounders lurking somewhere out there, better go equipped with a heavy-action baitcasting rig constructed with the sturdiest materials.

This is common sense shopping, really. Look at the options available, then buy the best combination you can afford for the conditions and catfish you usually encounter.

Bait-casting, spinning or spincast reels?

Baitcasting reels provide more power for cranking in big fish. The best models hold at least 200 yards of 17- to 20-pound monofilament. Good ones also feature a “clicker” mechanism that gives an audible signal when line is pulled from the reel, thus indicating that a catfish is taking your bait. The clicker also keeps a soft, steady tension on the spool, thereby preventing a cat from backlashing the reel when it runs with a bait.

Spinning reels have a place in catfishing, too, although they don’t offer the raw power or line-pick-up speed that baitcasters provide. Their primary application is when fishing light line (anything less than 12- to 14-pound-test). They handle smaller-diameter lines better, and if you want to have a good time catching cats, and won’t be too upset if a monster snaps your line, traditional bass-fishing models work fine.

Spincast reels are still the traditional favorites of many catfish fans. None has the winching power or line capacity of a large baitcaster, but each offers simple push-button casting control with a soft delivery suitable for small baits. This type of reel is perfect for children learning to cast, but don’t expect one to hold up well when battling a hard-fighting trophy-class catfish.

When hunting the big boys, you may have to upgrade to 30-, 40-, even 80-pound-test.

Line

Catfish aren’t line-shy, so you can use light or heavy line as situations dictate. High-strength, small-diameter monofilaments testing 15 to 25 pounds are good inexpensive choices for all-round use, but when hunting the big boys, you may have to upgrade to 30-, 40-, even 80-pound-test. When fishing rock-strewn tailraces, riprapped banks and heavy wood cover, you need strong line that resists abrasion. In these situations, braided lines may be best.

Hooks

There are two primary considerations when selecting a hook for catfishing — size and style.

Always use the smallest hook feasible. Small hooks penetrate quicker than big hooks. Smaller hooks also allow better bait presentations.

Small does not mean thin, however. The thin-wire hooks often used by panfishermen will straighten out when connected to even a modest-size catfish. Use heavy-gauge designs sturdy enough to hold the fish you’re targeting.

Match the size of the hook to the type and size of bait. Bear in mind that the hook point should remain well exposed after impaling the bait. A too-small hook may set back into the bait on the hookset, failing to make the desired connection.

Circle hooks are designed to quickly penetrate a cat’s mouth as it struggles against the tension of the line.

When fishing small baits for small catfish, you may need nothing larger than a No. 2 to No. 1 hook. A 1/0 or 2/0 hook is good when presenting a small strip of thin cutbait, but a 3/0 or 4/0 may be required when cutbait is prepared in thick chunks. A 5/0 or 6/0 is necessary when using bluegills and other live baitfish up to six inches. Switch to even larger hooks when using baits in the one-pound class to entice trophy-size cats.

Most catfishermen carry several different hook designs in their tackle box. Styles often used for live-bait and cutbait fishing include Sproat, O’Shaughnessy, Round Bend or Viking, Faultless, Kirby, Kahle and Octopus. The O’Shaughnessy, an old-time favorite of many catters, is an excellent, sturdy, multi-purpose hook available in sizes up to 10/0. The Kahle hook is another favorite. Its wide-gap design provides plenty of room for a large live or cutbait.

Another style, the circle hook, is popular with catfish anglers. Circle hooks are designed to quickly penetrate a cat’s mouth as it struggles against the tension of the line. Most cats get hooked in the corner of the mouth, not deep in the gullet where the hook may not penetrate properly in bony structures. For this reason, cats are more likely to stay hooked during the heat of battle, and they can be released with little or no harm.

Sinkers

Sinkers serve primarily to carry bait down to a water level where catfish are feeding. Choice depends primarily on the type of rig being fished, water depth, current velocity and bottom conditions. Use a size that has just enough weight to keep your bait in place at the desired level in the water column.

Slip sinkers slide freely on your line, usually above a barrel swivel or split shot used as a stop. Commonly used examples include egg sinkers, bullet sinkers and walking slip sinkers.

Other sinker designs commonly used by cat men include bell, bank, pyramid and bottom-bouncer sinkers.

Split shot are versatile and convenient for light-tackle fishing when small amounts of weight are needed. They also are used to balance sliding floats, weight drift rigs and as make-shift sinker stops on bottom rigs.

Bobbers

Bobbers, or floats, add weight so it’s easier to cast small baits like night crawlers and catalpa worms. They keep your bait moving efficiently into areas catfish inhabit. And because they move along a distinct path, you know exactly where your bait is and something about what it’s doing. You won’t get snagged as often using a bobber, you’ll know when a fish is biting, and you can suspend just above the bottom where many catfish feed.

Catfishermen use two basic types of bobbers-fixed bobbers, which attach firmly to the line, and sliding, or slip, bobbers that move freely along the line.

Fixed bobbers are best suited for fishing waters no deeper than the length of your rod or pole. This style of float allows the bait to remain at a preset depth after casting.

In deeper water, or when casting long distances, use a sliding bobber to eliminate casting problems caused by the long length of line between the bobber and the hook. These bobbers slide up and down the line, and your entire rigging (bobber, sinker and hook) can be reeled almost to the rod tip. When cast, the bobber floats while the sinker pulls the line through the bobber. A bobber stop or stop knot placed on the line stops line movement and suspends the bait at the preferred depth.

With catfishing, use top-quality ball-bearing swivels.
Swivels

Because catfish tend to twist and roll when hooked (as do many live baits used for catfishing), many fishermen like to add a swivel to their rigs. Swivels also serve as “stops” between slip sinkers and hooks.

If you do use swivels, avoid cheap brass-plated models. Instead, use top-quality ball-bearing swivels. The extra expense could mean the difference between landing a trophy or losing one.

Accessories

Additional items you might want to consider buying for catfishing include:

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A sturdy landing net
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Rod holders, for boat and bank
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Fisherman’s pliers or multi-tool
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A good tackle box
Cutting board and fillet knives: for preparing baits like cut fish
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Marker buoys: to mark dropoffs, bottom channels, humps, holes, etc.
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Lanterns and lantern accessories: for night fishing
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Insect repellent
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Anchor(s) for your boat
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A lawn chair or stool for bank fishing
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A big ice chest for carrying food, drinks, bait and catfish
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Life jackets: for safety
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Polarized sunglasses: for cutting glare on the water.
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Rod bells: clip to your rod tip to signal strikes
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Electronic strike indicators or “bite alarms”: produce an audible signal when a catfish bites

Basic Bait Choices

Big flatheads prefer live fish (minnows, small sunfish, shad, etc.) hooked to remain lively.

Big blue catfish most often are taken on oily baitfish such as shad and herring that have been cut into chunks or fillets.

Channel catfish, bullheads, small blues and small flatheads will eat almost anything. Live crawdads, minnows, night crawlers, shad, catalpa worms, salamanders, insects (especially grasshoppers), frogs, leeches. Almost anything dead: chicken liver, mussels, shrimp, shad, frogs. Weird stuff like Tender Chunks dog food, marshmallows, hot dogs and Ivory soap. Malodorous brews of cheese, decayed meat, blood and viscera; stuff that could honestly gag a maggot, indeed throw in the maggots for good measure. And at times jigs and crankbaits.

The bottom line is, you can use almost any bait imaginable and sooner or later you’ll hook a catfish.

Where to Find ‘em

Catfish relate to structure like black bass. You find them along dropoffs, near riprap, around rocky points, in flooded timber. Or maybe beneath undercut banks, in quiet water behind rocks in midcurrent, a deeper pool washed in a stream bend, a tributary mouth or where a fallen tree has improvised an eddy.

Cats generally prefer deep water during the day and shallow flats and edges at night. They prefer areas with current near their primary forage. And despite popular misconceptions, catfish are just caught when the weather is hot. They feed actively in cold weather, too, and they can be caught both night and day.

During the day, fish the deepest water available. At night, fish edges of deep holes first, then if you don’t connect with a cat, move into progressively shallower water.

Presentation

The choice of a particular fishing technique depends on the environment being fished and bait being used. Two basic presentations-drift and set-can easily be applied in most waters.

A drift presentation uses the natural, bait-moving capacity of current and is best for stream-fishing natural baits. Use just enough weight to take a bait to the bottom and allow the current to drift it through areas where catfish are stationed. To rig a drift rig, slip an egg sinker on your line, and about 1-2 feet above the bait, add a split shot or swivel to hold the sinker in place.

When using scent baits such as commercial catfish baits, a set presentation is most effective. Although there are many, the most basic set-bait rig is a three-way swivel rig. Tie the main line to one swivel eye and drop lines 10 and 20 inches long to the other two eyes. Tie a hook on the longer drop and a bell sinker to the shorter line.

Get Up and Go

Now all that’s left is the fishing. Check with your state fisheries department to learn the location of good catfishing waters. Then load up your gear and get going.

Great fighters. Widely available. Enormous sizes. Easily caught. Superb eating. I think maybe I was wrong. Catfish pack all the glitz and glamour an angler could ask for.

written by Keith Sutton

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Fishing for monster yellow cats calls for special tactics, plus plenty of patience. Here’s some advice on how to go about it.

Catching big flatheads, though, isn’t easy.  Heavyweights of this species provide some of the most challenging fishing in America.  You can be successful, however, if you follow a few tips.

Tip No. 1:  Don’t bother fishing for trophy flatheads unless patience is one of your primary virtues.

Catching trophy flatheads doesn’t happen every day, even for those thoroughly familiar with their everyday habits.  You may spend hundreds of fishless hours trying to pinpoint a single trophy fish.  And as the hours pass, the doubts begin to grow, and you start wondering if it’s really worth the bother.

That’s why many anglers give up flathead fishing even before they land their first big fish: they don’t have enough patience.  And without patience, you don’t stand a chance.

Learn to bide your time without undue perturbment.  Carry something comfortable to sit on, plenty of cold drinks and snacks, a good supply of insect repellent, and a buddy to talk to.  It’ll be a long night.  Maybe several long nights.  But sooner or later, the patient catter reaps his reward.

Tip No. 2:  Fish the warm months.

If you want the best chance of catching a trophy, fish when the water temperature ranges between the low 70s and the mid-80s; that’s when flatheads are most active.  May through October is peak flathead fishing season in most parts of our region.

Tip No. 3:  Focus your fishing efforts on large rivers and lakes.

Each river and lake also has specific areas on which you should focus your attention.  In rivers, look for flatheads in areas with a steady water flow and hardened mud or gravel bottom.  The outside bends of rivers are among the most productive hotspots. Potholes in the river bottom also tend to concentrate flatheads, as do the upstream sides of underwater humps, shallow flats and drops near tributary mouths, and the whitewater tailraces below big dams.

Lake-dwelling flatheads usually seek cover near areas of fast-breaking structure.  A depthfinder can help locate flatheads stationed on or near stream channels meandering across the bottom.  Inundated ponds are honey holes, since they offer flatheads easy access to both deep-water holding areas and shallow feeding spots.  Other areas to investigate include current-breaking cover where streams feed the lake, sloping points near the junctions of inundated channels, and steep rocky ledges with adjacent timber.

Tip No. 4:  Be a night owl, or at least an early bird.

Big flatheads are primarily nocturnal feeders, and whenever possible, anglers should be on the water during hours of darkness.  Unfortunately, late-night fishing presents problems for many working flathead fans, but there is a good alternative–fishing the hours around daybreak, 4 a.m. to 8 a.m.  There’s nothing magic about this time, but on many waters, peak feeding activity occurs just as the sun is cracking the horizon.  If you can’t fish at night, fish at dawn.

Tip No. 5:  Invest in good heavy tackle.

Hooking a trophy flathead requires an enormous investment of time.  If you want to land that trophy when it finally grabs your bait, you should also invest in good heavy tackle.  An angler using too light or poorly made gear may see his rod or line snapped in two like a stick of dry spaghetti, or stand in amazement after his favorite fishing reel has been turned into a hunk of inoperable metal and graphite.

Most ardent flatheaders favor heavy-action rods 7 to 9 feet long, big heavy-duty levelwind or spinning reels, and at least 30- to 50-pound-test line.  Forty-pound line is about right in most waters, but if there are snags, you may have to go heavier – 70, 80 pounds.

Hook size should correspond to the size of the bait.  As a general rule, for 4- to 7-inch baitfish, a size 2/0 to 4/0 hook is adequate.  Where 50-pound-plus cats are a possibility, 5/0 to 9/0 hooks may be in order.  The hooks should be honed to needle-like sharpness.

Tip No. 6: Use live fish for bait, nothing else.

Flatheads rarely are caught using chicken liver, stinkbaits, and other dead, malodorous allurements that tempt blue and channel catfish.  Big flatheads scavenge very little, preferring instead live food, especially live fish.

Shad and sunfish are the primary foods in many Southern waters, but chubs, small carp, bullheads and suckers also make up a large part of the diet. “Domestic” baitfish like goldfish and large shiners also are popular flathead baits and may be easier to obtain than wild baits.  Be sure to check the laws to know what’s legal where you’ll be fishing.

To exclude small fish from your catch and zero in on the trophies, use the biggest legal bait you can obtain.  For giant flatheads, this may mean a bait weighing eight ounces to two pounds or more.  You can’t cast a bait that size, but you don’t have to.  Rig it up, then use a boat to place it right where you want it.

Tip No. 7: Know how to properly play and land your fish.

Landing a heavyweight flathead does not involve fair play, at least not from the flathead.  It is bound up with drag-melting, muscle-cramping power runs, endless minutes of adrenaline-fueled skirmishing, and a blatant disregard for the topside opponent.  In other words, it is war minus the shooting.

A sizeable flathead may peel off a hundred yards of line before you ever turn its head, but if you can keep the fish away from cover and play it properly, you may, with any luck, eventually subdue it.  Remember, first, that you don’t fight the fish with the reel.  Play the fish with your arms and the rod, and store line on the reel.     When playing the fish, point the rod straight up, and allow the bend of the rod to tire the fish.  Hold your ground while the catfish is fighting, then when it eases up, lower your rod tip toward the water, reeling on the drop.  Be patient, and don’t apply unneeded pressure.

Another important tip: be sure your drag is set at some point below the breaking strength of your line.  Then, when a cat applies pressure, the drag will slip and give line rather than allowing pressure to build to the breaking point.

Keep a big landing net handy, too.  It’s darn near impossible to land a giant flathead with your hands – in a boat or on the shore.  Get it in a net – a big sturdy net – or risk losing it.

When you finally land your first big flathead, you can be proud that you’ve managed to triumph over one of freshwater fishing’s finest trophies.  Catch your second, third, and fourth big flathead, and you enter a class of elite anglers.  Only a handful of fishermen can catch the big ones consistently.

written by Keith Sutton

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Fishermen armed with minimal tackle, bait and knowledge can enjoy this almost-untapped resource with pleasing consistency.

Biologists in state fisheries agencies confirm that underutilized catfish populations exist in smaller creeks and rivers from Virginia to Texas.
“No business; no plans; no worries; no money; no future.  Too healthy to beg; too lazy to work; too old to steal.  Ain’t got much; don’t want anything.  Ain’t mad at nobody.  Ain’t running for nothing.  Waiting for the 3rd of the month.”

Joe B. Sweeney, Retired.  Lobelville, Tennessee.

Actually, Joe Sweeney’s “business card” lacks one additional, important inscription:  “River rat, specializing on catching catfish.”

And so he does!  This laid-back angler took early retirement a few years ago to fish and enjoy life.  This morning he’s on the Buffalo River, across the highway from his house, doing what he does three to four times a week from late spring through mid-fall:  Rod-and-reel fishing for cats.  Shafts of sunlight are shining through sycamore and maple trees along the east bank.  In a few hours the morning will turn hot, but for now the air is fresh and cool.  A light breeze and a swaying current soothe Sweeney’s soul as he watches his rods and waits for a bite.

“Isn’t this the life?” he muses.  “This is what fishing ought to be, quiet and peaceful.  And I can pretty near always catch a mess of fish.  Just give me three fiddlers, some french fries and hushpuppies, and I’m in hog heaven!”

Suddenly, the tip of one of Sweeney’s rods begins jerking.  The angler picks up the rod and waits.  Now his mood has changed from relaxed to ready.  He’s like a cat about to pounce on a mouse.  “Gotta let’im take it,” he coaches himself.  “Gotta let’im nibble ’til he pulls the rod down.  Go on, big boy, take it all…”

As though following Sweeney’s command, the fish pulls the rod tip down with a decisive thump, and the angler quickly sets the hook.  Then a brief fight ensues, the fish wallowing in the current, then burrowing under the boat as Sweeney takes line.  However, the catfish’s evasions are fruitless, and soon this squirming one-pounder is airlifted over the gunnels.  After a brief moment of admiration, the angler deposits the fish into a bucket holding two similar-sized members of its kind.  “Get the grease hot, mama!” he laughs.

Joe Sweeney has had plenty such chuckles on the Buffalo River over the years, because he’s done this so many times before.  He’s lived – and fished – here all his life.  When he was little, his father and grandfather taught him where to find smallmouth bass; how to gig for suckers, buffalo and carp; and how to catch catfish as a matter of routine.  “I used to specialize on fly fishing for smallmouth,” Sweeney explains.  “But as I’ve gotten older, I’ve turned more to catfishing.  It doesn’t take as much effort, and I can just about always count on getting a few.”

And so can other southern fishermen who apply Sweeney’s simple methods in creeks and rivers near their homes.  Channel, flathead and blue catfish abound in many of this region’s small running waters, and they are vastly overlooked by anglers more attuned to big lakes and such “glory species” as bass and crappie.  Fishermen armed with minimal tackle, bait and knowledge can enjoy this almost-untapped resource with pleasing consistency.  The fish are abundant, and bites are frequent.  As Sweeney says, this truly is fishing like it should be.

Small Stream Catfishing:  An Overview

The Buffalo River in central Tennessee is typical of many streams in the mid-South:  Moderate in size, depth and current.  It meanders through quiet fields lined by rolling hardwood ridges.  The river course is a continuous series of shallow, swift riffles, deep pools below the riffles, then runs of medium depth and speed.  The Buffalo’s water quality is good enough to support ample populations of smallmouth and rock bass, a variety of other sunfish, several species of rough fish, a hodgepodge of creek minnows, and catfish, which grow in surprising number and size.

“My biggest catfish from the Buffalo weighed 38 pounds, but I’ve hooked fish I know were bigger,” Sweeney narrates.  “Also, I’ve heard stories about yellow cats (flatheads) up to 80 pounds.  Most of these bigger fish were taken on trotlines or limb lines.

“I catch mostly smaller fish — 1/2-3 pounds.  There are a lot more of these, plus they’re better to eat.  In fact, if I catch a catfish much bigger than this, I pitch him back in the river.  He won’t be nearly as good as the little ones.”

Biologists in state fisheries agencies confirm that underutilized catfish populations exist in smaller creeks and rivers from Virginia to Texas.  Catfish can live in any but cold streams at high elevations.  These fish are adaptable to a broad range of current and turbidity conditions, thus their abundance.  Also, they are extremely hardy, and they will eat virtually anything organic.

Sweeney begins fishing for stream cats in late April, and action picks up as the weather warms.  “My favorite months are June, July and August,” he notes.  “This is when the fish bite the best.”

Though catfish are known as night feeders, Sweeney goes after them only during the daytime.  “I catch all I want in early morning and late afternoon,” he continues.

“However, when the sun starts shining in over the trees, the action slacks off.  I think the bright light drives the fish back under logs and into holes, and they quit feeding until the shadows reappear.”

For this reason, Sweeney prefers an overcast sky to a clear one.  When clouds block the sunlight, catfish may feed right through the day.  “I especially like a still, humid morning following a night of lightning and thunder.  I don’t know why such a morning is better, but it is.”

A crucial element in Sweeney’s stream-fishing pattern is location of the fish.  “Most people think catfish hang in deep, quiet holes.  This may be true of the bigger ones, but smaller cats feed in shallow, swift areas.  I’m talking about runs that are 2-3 feet deep and exposed to direct current.  Also, a spot is better if it has a clean gravel or clay bottom instead of a mud bottom.  Catfish hold around cover (logs, treetops, rocks, etc.) in these areas and move out into the current to find food.  In fact, they feed a lot like a bass.”

Tackle, Rigging, Baits, Boat

Joe Sweeney’s tackle for stream catfish is both elementary and inexpensive.  He uses two 6-foot medium action fiberglass casting rods fitted with spincast reels.  (He notes, “It’s hard to beat the old Zebco 33 for what I do.”)  He spools 8-12 lb. test line onto these reels.

To rig up, Sweeney ties on two hooks and a combination of sinkers matched to the depth and current.  “I prefer smaller hooks than most catfishermen do,” he remarks.  “I use #4 Eagle Claw wire hooks.  I’ll tie the first hook directly into my line with a granny knot some 18 inches above the end.  Then I’ll tie on my second hook 8-10 inches below this.

To rig up, Sweeney ties on two hooks and a combination of sinkers matched to the depth and current.
“Last, I add my weights.  I’ll run two or three egg sinkers up the line, then clamp a small split shot on the end to keep the egg sinkers from sliding off.  For fishing the Buffalo in the summer, I like about an ounce of lead.  This is plenty weight to hold the bait on bottom in swift current.  Fishermen on other streams may add more or less weight as differences in depth and current require.”

Sweeney says catfishermen can bait with any of a range of cut-up fish pieces, crawfish tails, stink baits, worms, insects, etc.  However, he has narrowed his bait choice to three top performers:  Red worms, chicken livers and catalpa worms.

“I raise my own red worms; they’re always good for catfish.  Fresh chicken liver is also a standard, and it’s one of the cheapest baits you can use.  A box costs around 75 cents.  Chicken livers are messy to handle and hard to keep on the hook, but that blood and liver smell sure attract catfish.  When I use liver, I’ll cut off a thumb-sized piece and run the hook through it two or three times.”

However, Sweeney says his favorite bait for stream catfish is a live catalpa worm.  “I planted three catalpa trees in my yard in 1956 just so I’d have a supply of these worms.  I get two crops a year, one in June and the other in August.  When I notice the leaves starting to disappear off my trees, I can collect catalpa worms by the dozens.  They’re big and tough, and they stay on the hook well.  Catfish absolutely love’em.”

Sweeney routinely fishes different baits on his two rods to see if the catfish have a preference.  “One day they might want worms, the next day livers.  But they’ll eat just about anything.

“For instance, one of my neighbors lives on a bluff overlooking the Buffalo, and a couple of years back he cooked a country ham and trimmed off some fat and skin and threw it in the river.  The next morning I was fishing under the bluff, and I caught a cat that weighed about 3 pounds.  When I cleaned it, there was that ham fat and skin rolled up in a ball in its belly.”

Sweeney’s boat/motor combo is as simple as his taste in fishing.  He runs a 14-foot aluminum johnboat powered by a 15-horse outboard.  He outfits his boat with a bucket or cooler to hold his fish, seat cushions, paddle, and two anchors – one attached to the bow of the boat, the other to the stern.

Streamfishing Methods

Thus rigged, baited and boated, Joe Sweeney is ready to begin his quest.

“Again, most people fish the deep holes, but in summer I catch a lot more in the shallow, fast runs,” he reiterates.  “I look for logs, rocks or undercut banks in direct, moderately strong current.  Then I anchor just upstream from this cover and cast downstream beside it.  When the weight hits bottom, I reel up slack line and set the rod in the boat with the tip sticking over the gunnels.  Then I just sit back and watch for a bite.”

When fishing alone, Sweeney anchors only one end of his johnboat.  The other end swings downcurrent, and his lines extend beyond into his target area.  However, when accompanied by a partner, Sweeney anchors his boat across the current with anchors on the bow and stern, then both anglers fish the downcurrent side.

Sweeney likes to anchor approximately 20 yards upcurrent from his target area, and he casts as close to his target cover as possible.  Then, with his first rod propped up, he casts his second line a few feet out from the first, and he sets this rod up in a like manner.  Then the waiting game begins.

When a catfish starts nibbling, the line pulses, and the rod tip jumps.  Sweeney picks up the rod, slowly reels his line tight and waits until the fish takes a big bite.  When the rod tip dips convincingly, he sets back and plays the hooked fish to the boat.

In the course of a morning, Sweeney will fish several different spots.  “I don’t stay at one place more than 15-20 minutes,” he says.  “If catfish are there, they’ll usually bite right away.  The normal routine is to catch two or three fish from a spot, then the bites quit coming.  So this is sort of a hit and run method.  I don’t wait in one place for very long hoping to get a bite.”

One nemesis to Sweeney’s technique is hangups.  “It’s very common to hang and break your rig off, but that’s just a drawback that goes with the fun.  I keep the hook and sinker people in business,” he notes.

Philosophy of Stream Catfishing

Joe Sweeney and his methods typify the casual approach that goes along with small streams, catfishing, and lazy summer mornings.  There is none of the hustle of the big lakes, no fast boats, crowded ramps, expensive gadgetry or sophisticated techniques.  Rather, this is old-fashioned fishing-for-dinner and a chance to shift into low gear……

“See how the current’s eating this field away?” Sweeney observes at one particular turn where a high bank shows five feet of topsoil.  “The river’s always changing.  There’s something different every year, new trees in the water, old ones gone, a fresh cut, an island washed away.”

In a way, the river resembles the lives of those who fish it.  They, too, are always changing.  “A lot of people just don’t go fishing anymore,” Sweeney muses.  “My grandsons used to go with me, but now they’re into the two G’s:  Girls and golf.  So mostly I fish alone, or sometimes I’ll take a neighbor.”  He threads a fresh worm on his hook.

“There are a lot of canoeists on the river in the summer, and sometimes all the boat traffic interferes with fishermen.  I usually fish early and late and leave the water to the paddlers during the mid-day hours.

“And while I’m talking about canoeists, I don’t think some of them have as much respect for the river as they should.  They throw cans and Styrofoam cups and other trash in the water.  I hate that.”  Sweeney casts his freshly baited rig downstream, waits for the weight to hit bottom, then sets his rod against the gunnels.

“I used to raise red worms to sell.  Whenever I’d be away from the house, I’d leave several boxes of worms out where people could find them, and they’d drop their money in a cigar box.  This business ran on the honor system, and I never knew it if anybody beat me out of a cent.”

In a few minutes Sweeney gets a bite, and he quickly lands a channel catfish the size of a large corncob.  “Big enough to bite, big enough to keep,” he judges, dropping the fish into the bucket.

In the next hour, Sweeney talks about whatever enters his mind.  He explains how his father and grandfather built flat-bottomed boats out of poplar planks, then sunk them in the river so they would swell and seal.  He talks about old friends and favorite fishing spots.  He laments the fast pace of life and the fact that modern parents spend so little time with their children.  He says, “My motto is, ‘Don’t send’em.  Go with’em.’  In this age you’ve gotta spend time with kids to keep’em out of trouble.”

That’s the way it is with small rivers and catfishing; there’s plenty time to think.  You can ponder whatever is important in your life.  You can remember yesterday, reflect on tomorrow, share an opinion or tell a tale.

The only trouble is, all too often a sneaky fish will snatch your bait and steal you away from your meditations.  You have to stop and reel the vagrant in, but putting up with such a “nuisance” is a fair price to pay for the pleasures of this summer sport and setting.

written by Wade Bourne

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Pro bass angler Randy Howell explains why many bassers have trouble putting together a viable pattern in late spring and offers some sage advice.

Late Spring BassTo many bass anglers, late spring, a.k.a. post-spawn, is one of the toughest times of the year to fish. Even many of the top pro anglers I’ve shared a boat with dread post-spawn fishing because it defies their attempts at putting together a cohesive bass-catching pattern.

But to my mind, that’s what makes late spring bassin’ so darn much fun. Trussville, Ala. pro Randy Howell agrees. “Late spring is a crazy time to fish for bass,” he told Bass Pro Shops OutdoorSite. “I’ve fished tournaments during this period when the top 10 finishers used 10 different lures and approaches.”

Busting Bedding Myths
“One of the most pervasive myths in bass fishing is that all bass spawn at the same time,” Howell said. “In reality, spawning occurs in waves. On my home lakes, I’ve seen largemouth bass on their beds in early March when the water temperature was barely 60 degrees and in mid-May in 75-degree water. One population of bass usually spawns early, then several waves may spawn when the water temp ranges from 65 to 70 degrees, and then yet another group of fish may not go on their beds until the water tops 70 degrees.”

Howell understands why many bassers have trouble putting together a viable pattern in late spring, but offers some sage advice: “Because you’re likely to encounter bass in pre-spawn, spawning and post-spawn modes now in the same areas, you’re penalizing yourself by focusing solely on fish that have completed the bedding process.”

Howell’s Approach
Randy favors reservoir tributary arms during late spring. “You’ll find staging, bedding and post-spawn bass close together in secondary feeder creeks and sheltered cuts off major creek arms when the water hits around 70 degrees,” he noted. “These places are favored for bedding because they’re shallow and often protected from cold north winds. Prior to spawning, bass follow the creek channel back into these pockets, then return to the main lake the same way they came in once spawning is over. This is shallow, close-in fishing — sometimes you’re actually sight fishing for late-bedding bass.”

In late spring, Howell usually begins at daybreak with a buzz bait, working it close to cover with underhand pitches. “I’ve caught many bass in the 8-pound range on buzzers this time of year,” he said. “For some reason, it’s especially effective on bass that have already spawned but are still hanging around the nest.”

A floating minnow bait like a Bang-O-Lure is Howell’s next choice. “I like a quieter surface lure once the sun gets a little higher. Cast the minnow close to cover, let it sit for several seconds, then retrieve it with short twitches so it plips a little on the surface. Floating minnows aren’t that popular these days, but they’re absolutely deadly this time of year when bass are stressed out after spawning and want a slow-moving bait.”

Once the sun tops the treeline, Howell breaks out his favorite artificial, a floating worm. “I call this my confidence lure. It’s very exciting to fish ’cause you can see the bass swim out and eat it. It’s an awesome big-bass bait; I’ve caught 10-pounders on it in late spring. I’m convinced the floating worm creates the impression of a baby water snake to bass.” Randy prefers a straight-tail worm in a bright color such as white or pink, rigged with a light wire hook. He fishes it on a medium-action 6 1/2-foot spinning rod and skips it under shoreline tree branches to fish lurking there. “Skipping the worm is the secret to its success. Bass often hang very tight to the bank in late spring; these fish are virtually unreachable by overhand casting. Skip the worm to them by standing and casting the lure forcefully 10 to 15 feet in front of your target. Once you get the hang of it, you can skip it into the tightest places.”

Howell always uses a fallback lure with the floating worm, usually a Texas-rigged tube bait or 5-inch finesse worm. “Sometimes bass will swim out and bump the worm without taking it; I’ll immediately drop the floating worm rod and pitch a tube or finesse worm to them. After it hits bottom, I’ll shake the rod tip gently so the lure quivers in place. This usually hits their hot button.”

In the rare event that Howell can’t get on fish with his shallow tributary pattern, he moves out to points at the mouths of creek arms and fishes a Carolina-rigged lizard or worm. “After spawning, bass will eventually work their way back out to the main lake via these points,” he explained. “They’ll hang around these structures until they gradually disperse to channel dropoffs, humps and other summer hangouts.”

Speaking of summer, its heat, humidity and jet skis will be here soon enough, so take my advice and enjoy the many pleasures of late spring fishing: blossoming trees, balmy temperatures, and maybe even a lunker bass or two.

written by Don Wirth

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Finding the pattern is crucial to consistent success, and the best way to expose patterns is by learning to keep and use a fishing log. Here’s how.

How to Keep a Fishing

The author puts his fishing log away after landing another largemouth bass.
We’ve all had days on the water when the fish refuse to bite no matter what technique or bait we toss their way. Scratching our heads only brings greater discomfort, and we resign ourselves to believe that it must just be a bad day on the water.

Situations such as these can be reversed — a feat made possible by the art of patterning fish. But before you can pattern, you must first learn to record, and that can easily be achieved by creating a fishing log.

How Does a Log Help?

A fishing log is a permanent record that outlines various criteria present during the catching of a fish. These conditions could include water clarity, wind, water and air temperature, date and time, lure or bait, retrieve speed and structure. A fishing log can include as much or as little detail as you choose, but the more information you track, the more useful it ultimately becomes.

The purpose of a fishing log is to give you greater insight into why a fish was caught. This is achieved by predicting future success by extrapolating past history. For instance, if a multitude of present-day factors are similar in nature to previous outings, chances are that success can be achieved once again by duplicating these same actions. Or, in layman’s terms, if you caught a bunch of bass on white spinnerbaits from a weedline when the wind was howling, the air temperature was 24-degrees Fahrenheit, and the water was murky and eight-feet deep, you should stick to this tactic when these similar conditions present themselves once more down the road. This is what they call patterning.

Another neat thing about fishing logs is the complete picture that they represent. Compare how many largies you caught this year to previous years. How many hours total did you fish this season? Did your average size go up or down? Not only can a log hold informative data, it can also hold a wealth of fun.
Lastly, putting ink on paper is always more clear and easier than trying to remember fishing memories that are long gone and faded. Permanent records stay with you for your lifetime.

Setting up a Log

Logs can be kept and stored in two separate manners — notebook and computer. I keep a paper log in the boat at all times, scribbling information down as I go about my day. At the end of the week, I enter this information onto a computer spreadsheet, which allows me to keep running totals, as well as providing quick access to any pages or printouts I may need. At year-end I print the entire document, and archive the information in a three-ringed binder. With each passing year the wealth of information grows, and I now have a handy reference tool to consult with, giving me valuable information before I head out on the water.

Fishing Log in Microsoft Excel

A screenshot of the author’s computerized fishing log.

I prefer to keep a separate log for each species I target. With largemouth, smallmouth and walleye being my three most popular fish, these would be the only logs I take out with me. I store each fishing log, with pen, in a large Ziplock bag, which is then tucked into a storage compartment or my tackle bag. Another handy tip is to always keep a small notepad in the boat. This can be used on the off chance you forget your main log at home. (It comes in handy for me a few times each year!)

The following list represents the criteria I use for my own fishing logs. Use what you feel is applicable, but remember, the more information you record, the more useful the log will be.

1. Date
2. Body of Water
3. Total Hours Fished
4. Weather (indicate sun, full cloud, part cloud or rain)
5. Wind Direction and Strength
6. Temperature (air and water)
7. Time (indicate when fish was caught)
8. Size (length or weight measurement)
9. Depth and Clarity
10. Cover/Structure you are fishing — weedline, rocks, slop, pads, dock, etc.
11. Lure or Bait (include size and color)
12. Retrieve (fast, slow, finesse etc.)

Be as specific as you can when entering data. If any other interesting facts need recording, leave a space at the end of the entry to add it in. Some significant entries I have written include “swarms of bait fish on point,” “spit up crawfish,” and “strong current levels adjacent to bridge pilings.”

A good buddy of mine has been keeping a fishing log for the last 18 years. It never grows old to hear him proclaim in the boat that he’s 67 largemouth ahead of last year’s figure, or that he needs to fish 210 more hours to break his all time record. He has patterning down to a science, because with that many years worth of information, he knows where he should be fishing and what to use at almost any given time.

Patterning Fish using a Fishing Log

The more information you can record in your log, the more valuable it will become.
Keep in mind that fishing logs are not something that can be completed overnight and will take at least a season or two before patterns can begin to be recognized. But the fun of filling them in can be felt on your first trip and are sure to bring added excitement as the weeks and months go by.

There are many free fishing log templates, as well as programs, that can be downloaded or printed off of the Internet. A search for “Fishing Logs” will bring you to those.

How to Pattern

Once you have spent a full season completing a fishing log, similarities will begin to shine through in multiple entries. For instance, when the wind is blowing from the north and it is raining while fishing “Lake X,” the walleye always smacked perched-colored crankbaits off of “Point A.” With this knowledge in hand, predictions can be made for subsequent trips when the parameters come together. This can help you duplicate your past successes, giving you another productive day on the water.

The night before a fishing trip, I pour over the forecast for the following day. This gives me a general idea of wind direction and strength, temperature and weather conditions. A quick check of log archives for similar time periods will often showcase similar occurrences. I then jot down or make a mental note of the baits, techniques, and areas that produced previously, in preparation for trying them once again the next day.

Patterning gives you an edge when it comes to fishing, and the best way to achieve a pattern is by virtue of a fishing log. Tournament anglers swear by patterning, and keeping logs is mandatory for most, if not all of these guys.
As you can see, a fishing log can provide valuable insight into your fishing habits, your goals and achievements, as well as being a great predictor for future success. Give fishing logs a whirl this season — there’s no better way to take your angling to the next level.

written by Justin Hoffman

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Improve your angling know-how by learning to identify and fish different types of cover.

Cover Fishing Basics

In dense populations, emergent vegetation will hold a variety of species. Thick growth can be difficult to fish beyond the short-cast tactics of pitching and flipping.

Learning to effectively fish cover is a fundamental angling skill. In this article, I’ll overview some common types of cover found in lakes and river systems and share tips on how to fish them for a variety of species.
Cover versus Structure

These two terms are sometimes used interchangeably, but they are not the same. When you get down to it, structure refers to the physical characteristics of the water body, such as points, reefs and islands. Cover, on the other hand, is the add-on features, such as docks, fallen trees and vegetation. A good way to remember the distinction is that if you were to drain all the water from a lake, the structures would not move.
Why Cover is Important

Fish relate to cover for shelter and security from the sun and predators. At the same time, cover provides predators with hiding and ambush areas. Elaborate and large areas of cover are like “aquatic neighborhoods” with each stage of the food chain present. From insects, to pumpkinseeds, to largemouth, cover serves as a place where fish come to feed, or hide-out in an effort to avoid being eaten.

Three Types of Aquatic Vegetation

As noted in the above example, aquatic vegetation is prime fishing cover. A good way to talk about weeds is by classifying them into floating, emergent and submerged categories as each has slightly different features for fish.

Floating Vegetation: Many anglers affectionately refer to floating vegetation as “slop”. Slop is often sought-out by largemouth bass enthusiasts. Slop is a combination of thin, strand-like algae and other floating vegetation that is mixed with emergent plants (like lily pads and coontail). In bays with limited water movement, slop sticks to other types of weeds, forming a large, floating mat that attracts largemouth. In deeper bays, slop will also hold pike and muskie.

Fishing slop is extremely fun when the fish are on and you have the right tools. Wander into a slop-filled bay with a spinning rod and eight-pound test and, to loosely quote the movie The Untouchables, “You’ve brought a knife to a gun fight”.

Slop requires heavy-action rods and heavy line (with 17-pound test monofilament or fluorocarbon and 30-pound test braid being recommended minimums). Lure choices include weedless soft-plastics or surface baits. Some of my favorite lures to use to fish slop are lizards or paddletail worms teamed with heavy sinkers to punch through the thick mats. Floating frogs such as Bass Pro Shops’ Tender Toad or Snag Proof Bobby’s Perfect Frog or toads such as Mann’s HardNose Swim Toad and Gamber’s Cane Toad are also great slop baits. When a bass explodes on one of these, its sends both weeds and your heart rate soaring.

Emergent Vegetation: An emergent plant grows in the water with some of its top extending beyond the surface. Reeds or bulrushes are an example of emergent vegetation. In dense populations these plants will hold a variety of species. Thick growth can be difficult to fish beyond the short-cast tactics of pitching and flipping.

Reeds and bulrushes are a prime largemouth spots in certain conditions. My favorite time to fish reeds and bulrushes is when they are being pounded with a warm, summer wind and waves. This pattern has held for me on numerous outings, and tossing Colorado-bladed spinnerbaits or Texas-rigged plastics have taken several largemouth aggressively feeding among the reeds.

Reeds are also a regular haunt for northern pike early in the season. Weedless swimming spoons can excel in average growth areas. These baits let you to quickly cover a lot of water in search for roaming northerns. Examples include Bass Pro Shops’ XPS Lazer Eye Weedless Spoon, Northland’s Jaw Breaker and Johnson’s Original Silver Minnow.

Lastly, reeds will hold panfish, like crappies and bluegills, in early spring. Slip bobbers and small micro jigs will easily take these pint-sized fish.

Submerged Vegetation: Submerged weeds make up a large percentage of fishing cover and will attract a variety of fish species. Weedflats and weedlines are two common examples. Walleye, bass, pike, muskie, trout and panfish are all drawn to weedflats and weedlines.

To work the edges of weeds, you can use lures like crankbaits, spinnerbaits or swimbaits. To fish the thick stuff, you need gear that’s fairly weedless. For walleye, consider a Lindy Veg-E-Jig. Largemouth and smallmouth can be fooled using soft jerkbaits or topwater baits. When it comes to pike and muskie, it’s tough to beat an inline spinner or a bucktail spinnerbait on a fast retrieve over the top of weeds.

If targeting trout in weeds, my best success has come when trolling wet flies over their tops. It’s a simple approach, but it’s fooled many rainbows for me over the years.

The Wonder of Wood

Wood is a relatively broad category when it comes to fishing cover. It can include sunken logs, standing timber, fallen trees (laydowns), beaver dams, docks and more. The point is, when you locate wood — fish it.

Fishing Cover Basics
Wood is less forgiving than weeds when you get snagged and it can be frustrating to fish if you aren’t used to it. Snags will happen if you’re not paying attention. Here are some tips for fishing the various types of wood cover.

Standing Timber: Timber can attract all types of bass and other game fish as well. Often common in reservoirs, working these trees calls for heavy duty gear and precision fishing. Straight retrieve topwater baits can shine during low-light and overcast conditions, some examples include Bass Pro Shops’ Sputter Ace Hardbait, buzzbaits, Heddon’s Wounded Zara Spook or Rapala’s Skitter Pop. Spinnerbaits will also work when the timber isn’t too dense. Flipping jigs or Texas-rigged plastics may be better to fish the thick stuff.

Fallen Trees and Beaver Dams: There are dozens of methods to fish fallen trees (also called laydowns). Most often associated with bass and panfish, I’ve also hooked muskie and pike from laydowns. Topwaters or big jigs with brush guards are two good options to fish these trees. These tactics will also work to fish beaver dams.

Fallen trees can also be phenomenal for brook trout as well as other trout species. Small inline spinners, spoons and flies will take trout around wood. Find a beaver dam on a trout lake and approach it with respect as it may hold a trophy speckled trout.

Docks: Docks are a beacon to many anglers, symbolizing a trophy’s fortress. To give yourself an edge, learn to approach and fish docks quietly. This ensures you won’t spook fish. If you can, work docks first with long casts, then move in and use short pitch and flip casts. Use snag-resistant lures to lessen your chances of snags, which dock owners will appreciate.

Other Types of Cover

Weeds and wood are the two main categories when it comes to fishing cover, but you may stumble on other fish-holding stuff during your adventures. For example, you may not initially think of tires as a good piece of cover, but these sunken circles will sometimes hold big largemouth bass.

When you find a new piece of cover, look at it in the context of the surrounding water features. Being inquisitive will result in you learning to differentiate between good versus bad types of cover and answer questions like: Why does this bay of lily pads hold bass but the other one doesn’t? Or why are all the rainbow trout relating to sunken logs on this side of the lake?

Consider cover in the larger context of the water body you’re fishing, and you’ll improve your angling know-how over the seasons.

Improve Your Sight with Polarized Glasses

What’s the one constant for shallow-water fishing around cover? Wear polarized glasses. They reduce the glare off the surface, letting you see easier through the water. Being able to see cover is critical to being able to fish it properly. Invest in a quality pair of sunglasses if you don’t already own polarized shades. They’ll make you a much better angler when fishing cover.

written by Tim Allard

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