Pro bass angler Randy Howell explains why many bassers have trouble putting together a viable pattern in late spring and offers some sage advice.

Late Spring BassTo many bass anglers, late spring, a.k.a. post-spawn, is one of the toughest times of the year to fish. Even many of the top pro anglers I’ve shared a boat with dread post-spawn fishing because it defies their attempts at putting together a cohesive bass-catching pattern.

But to my mind, that’s what makes late spring bassin’ so darn much fun. Trussville, Ala. pro Randy Howell agrees. “Late spring is a crazy time to fish for bass,” he told Bass Pro Shops OutdoorSite. “I’ve fished tournaments during this period when the top 10 finishers used 10 different lures and approaches.”

Busting Bedding Myths
“One of the most pervasive myths in bass fishing is that all bass spawn at the same time,” Howell said. “In reality, spawning occurs in waves. On my home lakes, I’ve seen largemouth bass on their beds in early March when the water temperature was barely 60 degrees and in mid-May in 75-degree water. One population of bass usually spawns early, then several waves may spawn when the water temp ranges from 65 to 70 degrees, and then yet another group of fish may not go on their beds until the water tops 70 degrees.”

Howell understands why many bassers have trouble putting together a viable pattern in late spring, but offers some sage advice: “Because you’re likely to encounter bass in pre-spawn, spawning and post-spawn modes now in the same areas, you’re penalizing yourself by focusing solely on fish that have completed the bedding process.”

Howell’s Approach
Randy favors reservoir tributary arms during late spring. “You’ll find staging, bedding and post-spawn bass close together in secondary feeder creeks and sheltered cuts off major creek arms when the water hits around 70 degrees,” he noted. “These places are favored for bedding because they’re shallow and often protected from cold north winds. Prior to spawning, bass follow the creek channel back into these pockets, then return to the main lake the same way they came in once spawning is over. This is shallow, close-in fishing — sometimes you’re actually sight fishing for late-bedding bass.”

In late spring, Howell usually begins at daybreak with a buzz bait, working it close to cover with underhand pitches. “I’ve caught many bass in the 8-pound range on buzzers this time of year,” he said. “For some reason, it’s especially effective on bass that have already spawned but are still hanging around the nest.”

A floating minnow bait like a Bang-O-Lure is Howell’s next choice. “I like a quieter surface lure once the sun gets a little higher. Cast the minnow close to cover, let it sit for several seconds, then retrieve it with short twitches so it plips a little on the surface. Floating minnows aren’t that popular these days, but they’re absolutely deadly this time of year when bass are stressed out after spawning and want a slow-moving bait.”

Once the sun tops the treeline, Howell breaks out his favorite artificial, a floating worm. “I call this my confidence lure. It’s very exciting to fish ’cause you can see the bass swim out and eat it. It’s an awesome big-bass bait; I’ve caught 10-pounders on it in late spring. I’m convinced the floating worm creates the impression of a baby water snake to bass.” Randy prefers a straight-tail worm in a bright color such as white or pink, rigged with a light wire hook. He fishes it on a medium-action 6 1/2-foot spinning rod and skips it under shoreline tree branches to fish lurking there. “Skipping the worm is the secret to its success. Bass often hang very tight to the bank in late spring; these fish are virtually unreachable by overhand casting. Skip the worm to them by standing and casting the lure forcefully 10 to 15 feet in front of your target. Once you get the hang of it, you can skip it into the tightest places.”

Howell always uses a fallback lure with the floating worm, usually a Texas-rigged tube bait or 5-inch finesse worm. “Sometimes bass will swim out and bump the worm without taking it; I’ll immediately drop the floating worm rod and pitch a tube or finesse worm to them. After it hits bottom, I’ll shake the rod tip gently so the lure quivers in place. This usually hits their hot button.”

In the rare event that Howell can’t get on fish with his shallow tributary pattern, he moves out to points at the mouths of creek arms and fishes a Carolina-rigged lizard or worm. “After spawning, bass will eventually work their way back out to the main lake via these points,” he explained. “They’ll hang around these structures until they gradually disperse to channel dropoffs, humps and other summer hangouts.”

Speaking of summer, its heat, humidity and jet skis will be here soon enough, so take my advice and enjoy the many pleasures of late spring fishing: blossoming trees, balmy temperatures, and maybe even a lunker bass or two.

written by Don Wirth

Email this post

Finding the pattern is crucial to consistent success, and the best way to expose patterns is by learning to keep and use a fishing log. Here’s how.

How to Keep a Fishing

The author puts his fishing log away after landing another largemouth bass.
We’ve all had days on the water when the fish refuse to bite no matter what technique or bait we toss their way. Scratching our heads only brings greater discomfort, and we resign ourselves to believe that it must just be a bad day on the water.

Situations such as these can be reversed — a feat made possible by the art of patterning fish. But before you can pattern, you must first learn to record, and that can easily be achieved by creating a fishing log.

How Does a Log Help?

A fishing log is a permanent record that outlines various criteria present during the catching of a fish. These conditions could include water clarity, wind, water and air temperature, date and time, lure or bait, retrieve speed and structure. A fishing log can include as much or as little detail as you choose, but the more information you track, the more useful it ultimately becomes.

The purpose of a fishing log is to give you greater insight into why a fish was caught. This is achieved by predicting future success by extrapolating past history. For instance, if a multitude of present-day factors are similar in nature to previous outings, chances are that success can be achieved once again by duplicating these same actions. Or, in layman’s terms, if you caught a bunch of bass on white spinnerbaits from a weedline when the wind was howling, the air temperature was 24-degrees Fahrenheit, and the water was murky and eight-feet deep, you should stick to this tactic when these similar conditions present themselves once more down the road. This is what they call patterning.

Another neat thing about fishing logs is the complete picture that they represent. Compare how many largies you caught this year to previous years. How many hours total did you fish this season? Did your average size go up or down? Not only can a log hold informative data, it can also hold a wealth of fun.
Lastly, putting ink on paper is always more clear and easier than trying to remember fishing memories that are long gone and faded. Permanent records stay with you for your lifetime.

Setting up a Log

Logs can be kept and stored in two separate manners — notebook and computer. I keep a paper log in the boat at all times, scribbling information down as I go about my day. At the end of the week, I enter this information onto a computer spreadsheet, which allows me to keep running totals, as well as providing quick access to any pages or printouts I may need. At year-end I print the entire document, and archive the information in a three-ringed binder. With each passing year the wealth of information grows, and I now have a handy reference tool to consult with, giving me valuable information before I head out on the water.

Fishing Log in Microsoft Excel

A screenshot of the author’s computerized fishing log.

I prefer to keep a separate log for each species I target. With largemouth, smallmouth and walleye being my three most popular fish, these would be the only logs I take out with me. I store each fishing log, with pen, in a large Ziplock bag, which is then tucked into a storage compartment or my tackle bag. Another handy tip is to always keep a small notepad in the boat. This can be used on the off chance you forget your main log at home. (It comes in handy for me a few times each year!)

The following list represents the criteria I use for my own fishing logs. Use what you feel is applicable, but remember, the more information you record, the more useful the log will be.

1. Date
2. Body of Water
3. Total Hours Fished
4. Weather (indicate sun, full cloud, part cloud or rain)
5. Wind Direction and Strength
6. Temperature (air and water)
7. Time (indicate when fish was caught)
8. Size (length or weight measurement)
9. Depth and Clarity
10. Cover/Structure you are fishing — weedline, rocks, slop, pads, dock, etc.
11. Lure or Bait (include size and color)
12. Retrieve (fast, slow, finesse etc.)

Be as specific as you can when entering data. If any other interesting facts need recording, leave a space at the end of the entry to add it in. Some significant entries I have written include “swarms of bait fish on point,” “spit up crawfish,” and “strong current levels adjacent to bridge pilings.”

A good buddy of mine has been keeping a fishing log for the last 18 years. It never grows old to hear him proclaim in the boat that he’s 67 largemouth ahead of last year’s figure, or that he needs to fish 210 more hours to break his all time record. He has patterning down to a science, because with that many years worth of information, he knows where he should be fishing and what to use at almost any given time.

Patterning Fish using a Fishing Log

The more information you can record in your log, the more valuable it will become.
Keep in mind that fishing logs are not something that can be completed overnight and will take at least a season or two before patterns can begin to be recognized. But the fun of filling them in can be felt on your first trip and are sure to bring added excitement as the weeks and months go by.

There are many free fishing log templates, as well as programs, that can be downloaded or printed off of the Internet. A search for “Fishing Logs” will bring you to those.

How to Pattern

Once you have spent a full season completing a fishing log, similarities will begin to shine through in multiple entries. For instance, when the wind is blowing from the north and it is raining while fishing “Lake X,” the walleye always smacked perched-colored crankbaits off of “Point A.” With this knowledge in hand, predictions can be made for subsequent trips when the parameters come together. This can help you duplicate your past successes, giving you another productive day on the water.

The night before a fishing trip, I pour over the forecast for the following day. This gives me a general idea of wind direction and strength, temperature and weather conditions. A quick check of log archives for similar time periods will often showcase similar occurrences. I then jot down or make a mental note of the baits, techniques, and areas that produced previously, in preparation for trying them once again the next day.

Patterning gives you an edge when it comes to fishing, and the best way to achieve a pattern is by virtue of a fishing log. Tournament anglers swear by patterning, and keeping logs is mandatory for most, if not all of these guys.
As you can see, a fishing log can provide valuable insight into your fishing habits, your goals and achievements, as well as being a great predictor for future success. Give fishing logs a whirl this season — there’s no better way to take your angling to the next level.

written by Justin Hoffman

Email this post

Improve your angling know-how by learning to identify and fish different types of cover.

Cover Fishing Basics

In dense populations, emergent vegetation will hold a variety of species. Thick growth can be difficult to fish beyond the short-cast tactics of pitching and flipping.

Learning to effectively fish cover is a fundamental angling skill. In this article, I’ll overview some common types of cover found in lakes and river systems and share tips on how to fish them for a variety of species.
Cover versus Structure

These two terms are sometimes used interchangeably, but they are not the same. When you get down to it, structure refers to the physical characteristics of the water body, such as points, reefs and islands. Cover, on the other hand, is the add-on features, such as docks, fallen trees and vegetation. A good way to remember the distinction is that if you were to drain all the water from a lake, the structures would not move.
Why Cover is Important

Fish relate to cover for shelter and security from the sun and predators. At the same time, cover provides predators with hiding and ambush areas. Elaborate and large areas of cover are like “aquatic neighborhoods” with each stage of the food chain present. From insects, to pumpkinseeds, to largemouth, cover serves as a place where fish come to feed, or hide-out in an effort to avoid being eaten.

Three Types of Aquatic Vegetation

As noted in the above example, aquatic vegetation is prime fishing cover. A good way to talk about weeds is by classifying them into floating, emergent and submerged categories as each has slightly different features for fish.

Floating Vegetation: Many anglers affectionately refer to floating vegetation as “slop”. Slop is often sought-out by largemouth bass enthusiasts. Slop is a combination of thin, strand-like algae and other floating vegetation that is mixed with emergent plants (like lily pads and coontail). In bays with limited water movement, slop sticks to other types of weeds, forming a large, floating mat that attracts largemouth. In deeper bays, slop will also hold pike and muskie.

Fishing slop is extremely fun when the fish are on and you have the right tools. Wander into a slop-filled bay with a spinning rod and eight-pound test and, to loosely quote the movie The Untouchables, “You’ve brought a knife to a gun fight”.

Slop requires heavy-action rods and heavy line (with 17-pound test monofilament or fluorocarbon and 30-pound test braid being recommended minimums). Lure choices include weedless soft-plastics or surface baits. Some of my favorite lures to use to fish slop are lizards or paddletail worms teamed with heavy sinkers to punch through the thick mats. Floating frogs such as Bass Pro Shops’ Tender Toad or Snag Proof Bobby’s Perfect Frog or toads such as Mann’s HardNose Swim Toad and Gamber’s Cane Toad are also great slop baits. When a bass explodes on one of these, its sends both weeds and your heart rate soaring.

Emergent Vegetation: An emergent plant grows in the water with some of its top extending beyond the surface. Reeds or bulrushes are an example of emergent vegetation. In dense populations these plants will hold a variety of species. Thick growth can be difficult to fish beyond the short-cast tactics of pitching and flipping.

Reeds and bulrushes are a prime largemouth spots in certain conditions. My favorite time to fish reeds and bulrushes is when they are being pounded with a warm, summer wind and waves. This pattern has held for me on numerous outings, and tossing Colorado-bladed spinnerbaits or Texas-rigged plastics have taken several largemouth aggressively feeding among the reeds.

Reeds are also a regular haunt for northern pike early in the season. Weedless swimming spoons can excel in average growth areas. These baits let you to quickly cover a lot of water in search for roaming northerns. Examples include Bass Pro Shops’ XPS Lazer Eye Weedless Spoon, Northland’s Jaw Breaker and Johnson’s Original Silver Minnow.

Lastly, reeds will hold panfish, like crappies and bluegills, in early spring. Slip bobbers and small micro jigs will easily take these pint-sized fish.

Submerged Vegetation: Submerged weeds make up a large percentage of fishing cover and will attract a variety of fish species. Weedflats and weedlines are two common examples. Walleye, bass, pike, muskie, trout and panfish are all drawn to weedflats and weedlines.

To work the edges of weeds, you can use lures like crankbaits, spinnerbaits or swimbaits. To fish the thick stuff, you need gear that’s fairly weedless. For walleye, consider a Lindy Veg-E-Jig. Largemouth and smallmouth can be fooled using soft jerkbaits or topwater baits. When it comes to pike and muskie, it’s tough to beat an inline spinner or a bucktail spinnerbait on a fast retrieve over the top of weeds.

If targeting trout in weeds, my best success has come when trolling wet flies over their tops. It’s a simple approach, but it’s fooled many rainbows for me over the years.

The Wonder of Wood

Wood is a relatively broad category when it comes to fishing cover. It can include sunken logs, standing timber, fallen trees (laydowns), beaver dams, docks and more. The point is, when you locate wood — fish it.

Fishing Cover Basics
Wood is less forgiving than weeds when you get snagged and it can be frustrating to fish if you aren’t used to it. Snags will happen if you’re not paying attention. Here are some tips for fishing the various types of wood cover.

Standing Timber: Timber can attract all types of bass and other game fish as well. Often common in reservoirs, working these trees calls for heavy duty gear and precision fishing. Straight retrieve topwater baits can shine during low-light and overcast conditions, some examples include Bass Pro Shops’ Sputter Ace Hardbait, buzzbaits, Heddon’s Wounded Zara Spook or Rapala’s Skitter Pop. Spinnerbaits will also work when the timber isn’t too dense. Flipping jigs or Texas-rigged plastics may be better to fish the thick stuff.

Fallen Trees and Beaver Dams: There are dozens of methods to fish fallen trees (also called laydowns). Most often associated with bass and panfish, I’ve also hooked muskie and pike from laydowns. Topwaters or big jigs with brush guards are two good options to fish these trees. These tactics will also work to fish beaver dams.

Fallen trees can also be phenomenal for brook trout as well as other trout species. Small inline spinners, spoons and flies will take trout around wood. Find a beaver dam on a trout lake and approach it with respect as it may hold a trophy speckled trout.

Docks: Docks are a beacon to many anglers, symbolizing a trophy’s fortress. To give yourself an edge, learn to approach and fish docks quietly. This ensures you won’t spook fish. If you can, work docks first with long casts, then move in and use short pitch and flip casts. Use snag-resistant lures to lessen your chances of snags, which dock owners will appreciate.

Other Types of Cover

Weeds and wood are the two main categories when it comes to fishing cover, but you may stumble on other fish-holding stuff during your adventures. For example, you may not initially think of tires as a good piece of cover, but these sunken circles will sometimes hold big largemouth bass.

When you find a new piece of cover, look at it in the context of the surrounding water features. Being inquisitive will result in you learning to differentiate between good versus bad types of cover and answer questions like: Why does this bay of lily pads hold bass but the other one doesn’t? Or why are all the rainbow trout relating to sunken logs on this side of the lake?

Consider cover in the larger context of the water body you’re fishing, and you’ll improve your angling know-how over the seasons.

Improve Your Sight with Polarized Glasses

What’s the one constant for shallow-water fishing around cover? Wear polarized glasses. They reduce the glare off the surface, letting you see easier through the water. Being able to see cover is critical to being able to fish it properly. Invest in a quality pair of sunglasses if you don’t already own polarized shades. They’ll make you a much better angler when fishing cover.

written by Tim Allard

Email this post

Like almost all fishing lures, bass jigs can be modified to yield better results. Follow these simple steps to make your flipping jigs more effective.

Tools for Tuning a Bass Jig

The basic tools for tuning up jigs.

Flipping jigs are phenomenal bass baits. No matter if you flip, jig, pitch, or swim them through the drink, they always seem to attract the attention of those predatory bass. But are the jigs you’re tossing giving you the full benefit of fish-catching power? Definitely not if they’re being used straight from the package.

Tuning up your jigs should be a rite of passage for every bass angler. Not only will the underwater presentation improve, but your catch rates will soar dramatically.

Trimming the Weed Guard

Most flipping jigs come standard with a nylon-bristled weed guard. This is to make the lure relatively weedless, which is achieved by deflecting vegetation and debris away from the hook point. However, when weed guards are too thick or long, hook penetration will be poor due to a lack of contact with the fishes’ mouth. This will result in lost fish and missed strikes.

Most flipping jigs are manufactured with approximately thirty strands of nylon in their weed guard. I personally prefer this number to be between 12 and 15. To remove the extra bristles, use a sharp pair of scissors and begin cutting strands from the base. Keep your cuts as close to the lead head as possible, making sure to remove nylon in equal amounts from the top, sides and bottom.

The next step is to concentrate on the length. A perfectly tuned flipping jig will have a weed guard that is trimmed to just past the hook point. I prefer to make my cut at a 45-degree angle, leaving the bristles closest to the hook slightly longer than the top section.

Weed Guard Trimed

An unmodified weedguard on the bottom and a trimmed-up version on the top.

Once the thickness and length have been modified, bend the weed guard back and forth at the base10 times or so to increase its flexibility. You will also want to fan out the nylon in order to offer less resistance to the fish, while also increasing its weedlessness.

Shortening the Skirt

Living rubber or nylon skirts make up the meat and potatoes of a flipping jig. I like to modify the skirt slightly, giving it a more streamlined approach when under the water, while also showcasing the trailer in a more attractive light.

Hold the jig by the head in one hand, allowing the skirt to fall naturally downwards. With a pair of sharp scissors, begin at the bottom middle of the skirt, and do one 45-degree cut to the left, and then make another cut to the right. Cut approximately one centimeter of skirt material when doing this. What you are left with is a skirt that is longer in the middle, while flared on both sides. The bass will like it.

The overall length of the skirt is also an important consideration. A skirt too long may lead to short striking fish. In order to counteract this problem, ensure that the length from the bend in the hook to the bottom of the skirt is no longer than one-inch. I have found this to be best in terms of performance and hooking ability.

Bending the Hook

Most flipping jigs are built with high quality oversized hooks. This is a necessity when big bass are on the line. For those that want to improve hookups this season, opening the gap slightly will benefit the cause.

Jig Fishing

With a pair of pliers grasped just behind the barb, bend the hook gap out approximately 10%. Doing so will enable the hook to find flesh more easily, leading to a few more fish in the boat. Be careful not to flatten the barb or bend the hook too much — both these actions can lower the effectiveness of the modification.

Many of the hooks on the market are laser honed. If this is the case with your jig, do not use a file on it. You cannot improve the cutting power of these points, yet you can dull them by attempting to hone them.

If they are not laser honed, work them over with a hook hone directly out of the package. Giving them a quick touch-up after every fish, especially when making contact with heavy cover, as this will improve your hooking percentages greatly.

Gluing the Rattles

Most of the time I toss jigs with built-in rattles. Sometimes these rattle chambers stay pegged to the shank of the hook, other times they don’t. If they do stay put, they can become loose over time, at which point they will slide up and down the hook shank, or twist side to side. This can cause problems when rigging trailers, and can also impede with hook penetration. A small tube of Super (Crazy) Glue will do the trick.

Apply a thin layer of glue along the shank of the hook where the rattle chamber is positioned. If the chamber has “lids” on each end, put a dollop or two on each of these to prevent the BB’s from making an escape.

While you have the glue out, place a drop or two at the point where the weed guard meets the head of the jig. These bristles have been known to pop out on occasion.

Tuning Up Your Trailers

Plastic and pork are both common flipping jig trailers. Both work equally well, but much like the jig, their effectiveness can be heightened.

Tuning a Bass Jig

Plastic trailers can also be modified to increase action and speed of decent.

The larger the trailer you use, the slower the drop will be. If you want to speed up the rate of decent, trim portions of the length with a sharp knife or scissors.

The action of trailers can also be enhanced, mainly through the use of cuts or slices. If using frog or craw-style baits, cut from the “legs” upwards to the belly. This will make the appendages flap and flail more when moving through the water. Thin slices can be made on one side of the plastic or pork, giving the trailer more undulations when swimming, or when moving vertically.

Commercial dyes can be used out on the water to create different hues, which can often be helpful when attempting to matching the appearance of the prey on which the bass are feeding.

No matter what modification you make to trailers, there is no right or wrong. It can really go as far as your imagination takes you.

Flipping jigs certainly catch bass, and they have become my go-to bait when out on the water. But much like any fishing lure on the market, they can always be modified to bring better results. Have fun tuning up your jigs — the bass may not like you, but your livewell certainly will.

written by Justin Hoffman

Email this post

Actively searching for fish with the naked eye can lead to excitement-packed days and — when conditions are right — a steady bend in the rod.

Sight Fishing for Bass
Lizards make an excellent choice when tossing to spotted fish.
No other form of bass fishing conjures up as much excitement as the technique of sight fishing. I liken it to a strategic chess match played out on water — your “enemy” is visibly swimming before you, and those combatants that exhibit patience, skill and the utmost dexterity will ultimately become victor.

This game does come with its own set of rules, but for those that follow them, the rewards can be great.

A Year-Round Tactic

Although primarily thought of as a spring time tactic, sight fishing is a technique that can be utilized throughout the seasons. But in order for it to be a viable option, certain criteria must be met.

Water clarity is of extreme importance. Without being able to visibly spot fish, this tactic becomes a futile exercise. Clear water is mandatory for optimum vision, but let it be known that the clearer the water is, the greater chance the fish have of also spotting you. My preference is for clear, yet slightly stained water. This still allows you to see your targets, but lessens the chance of overly skittish or spooked bass.

A slight ripple on the water also puts the odds in your favour, as the surface refraction causes a decrease in the vision of bass, which aids in keeping them from seeing you. The greater the wind and wave action, the harder it becomes for an angler to spot anything below the surface.

Sight Fishing for Bass
Always look well ahead of the boat when searching for fish. Any movement, whether on the surface or below, warrants a second look.
Shallow water flats are best for locating fish, as the fairly uniform depth allows a larger area to cover, and visibility is best when fishing the skinny stuff. Over the years I’ve discovered that water that is between one and eight-feet deep will yield the greatest results. Keep this in mind for the season you fish, because if the bass go deep on your body of water in October or March, sight fishing is not in your best interest.

A variety of bottom structure is best to search out, and one of my best haunts for sight fishing is a back bay with sand, wood and sparse vegetation. If weeds are too thick, fish will become far too hard to spot, so concentrate on locations that have sporadic green stuff.

The springtime spawn is a popular time to seek out fish (check if it is legal in your area), as big females sit on nests protecting their young, and all bass of a breeding age flood the shallows to mate. Many times the small bucks will be the easy fish to catch, but persistence can pay off for those trophy girls. Bedding fish are generally not hungry, and will hit baits out of pure aggression, especially when defending their nests. Lizards and tubes are two excellent choices at this time, and working them repeatedly in the nest area is a proven method for getting these fish to bite.

Tools of the Trade

Polarized glasses are the most important piece of equipment a sight-fishing angler can own. Without these “underwater eyes,” the chances of spotting fish go way down. Choose a high-quality model, and experiment with different lens colors until you find one that works best for you. I’ve relied on a brown hue for many years now, and find that it is optimum for seeking out fish on the water I frequent.

Spinning gear will be your weapon of choice, as light line and downsized baits come with the territory. A medium-action rod with a good backbone between 6 and 6 1/2 feet in length is standard, coupled with the smooth drag of a spinning reel. Keep line light to combat visibility below the surface, and if choosing mono, six- to eight-pound test works best. Fluorocarbon line is also an excellent choice for sight fishing, as it is more resistant to abrasion and has greater hiding qualities under water. Again, go with six- to eight-pound test.

In terms of baits, soft plastics rule the roost. Lizards, tubes, craws and worms are all on my go-to list and work extremely well for this style of fishing. Three to five-inch lures work best, as their size can still be spotted from a distance, but aren’t too imposing to spook or scare fish away.

When rigging plastics, a 1/32 or 1/16 ounce screw-in worm weight is all you need, as this will present your bait in the most lifelike and tantalizing manner. If the fish are really in shallow, you may find that a weightless bait will bring the best results. Wacky worms work great for sight fishing, so keep that also in mind.

I prefer to keep the colors of my baits fairly neutral, as you will be dealing with clear water and fish that can take their time to decipher if something isn’t right. Brown, black, white, junebug and watermelon have rewarded me well in the past.

Whatever bait you choose, smothering it with a commercial fish scent can only up your odds for getting bit.

Strategies and Techniques

Quiet is key when searching out shallow water fish, so pay close attention to your trolling motor or any loud noises coming from the boat. Push poles can offer a discreet method of movement, and are a great option for the sight fisherman.

Keep electric motors on low and boat noises to a minimum.
Always look well ahead of the boat when searching for fish. Any movement, whether it is on the surface or below, calls for a second and more stringent look. The motions you make can also alert fish, so try to keep still and movement-free when working a productive area.

The color of your clothing can also play a role in the amount of fish you catch. Bright garments can be spotted by vision-savvy fish, so light and neutral-colored hues make the most sense. The game of sight fishing isn’t much different than a deer or turkey hunter trying to blend in with their surroundings.

When a fish is spotted, make your first cast count. A side-arm casting approach is best, as this will alleviate heavy landings and splashes. You want your bait to glide into the water as naturally and spook-free as possible. Feathering your line with your fingertips just prior to entering the water can aid in a splashless entry.

Always cast five or six feet in front of the bass, and never directly at it. Landing a bait on top of a fish is a sure way to scare it. Be prepared to make long casts. The further away you can position yourself and your boat from the fish, the greater your chances for success.

You want your bait to fall naturally, and if the fish doesn’t inhale it right off the bat, let it come in to investigate. At this point, a fun game of cat and mouse begins. Quiver your lure, pulsate it or slowly raise it off bottom. Anything to tempt that fish to strike. Over time, and fish, you will learn what tactics and motions you can give your bait for the best chance at sealing the deal.

Sight fishing for largemouth bass throws a whole new twist on the angling game. Targeting and actively searching for fish with the naked eye can lead to excitement-packed days, and when conditions are just right, a steady bend in the rod and a smile on the face. Happy spotting!
written by Justin Hoffman

Email this post

Casting for largemouth bass offers new opportunities for died-in-the-wool fly fishers and new challenges for conventional tackle bass anglers.

Bass Fly PopperAlthough most new fly fishers associate fly fishing with trout, anglers have been fly rodding for black bass since at least the 1800s. That’s when railroaders increased bass distribution Westward by dumping fingerlings into water ponds along the ever increasing miles of new railroad track. At present, there are more bass within reasonable driving distance of anglers than trout.

If you are throwing small flies at bantam-weight pond bass, your trout/sunfish-sized 5 weight outfit will work. Larger bass flies require something like an 8 or 9 weight setup. For pulling bigger fish out of nasty cover, you may want a 10 weight stick.

Rods and Reels

Bassing with a fly rod involves a lot of casting, so the rod is the most important part of the outfit. A reasonably functional fly rod should have at least as many guides as feet in length (an 8-1/2 foot rod should have 8-10 guides). Information on the length and fly line weight should be printed on the rod, just forward of the grip. If the rod says it takes a #8 fly line, that’s what you should have.

Bass fight dirty and don’t often allow you time to get them on the reel. For that reason, and because you won’t be using especially light tippets anyway, the reel is not as important as the rod and line. Most reels come with information suggesting what weight lines they accommodate.

Fly Lines, Backing and Leaders

Make sure the fly line weight and the line rating on the rod match! The vast majority of your bass fishing — even with sinking flies — will be done with a floating line, and that is where you should start.

After you’ve mastered all the possibilities of a floating line, you may find yourself buying an extra spool for your reel and purchasing a sinking or sink-tip line. Tapered lines fish more easily than a level line. Lines that manufacturers label “bass taper” are special weight-forward tapers. These work well for delivering a bug beyond your false-casting distance. Double taper lines lend themselves to accuracy in circumstances where you are fishing at a pretty constant distance (working a shoreline from a boat), picking the fly up, and laying it back out with no false casting.

You should have dacron backing behind the fly line to fill the reel, but it won’t come into play when fighting a bass.

Most fly leaders are tapered, but a precise taper isn’t as critical in bass bugging as it is in dry-fly fishing. Because of the rough cover you’ll be dragging your leader through, it IS important that the leader material will handle abrasion. This aspect is more important to this type of fishing than small diameter. Many expert bassers are using fluorocarbon tippet for this reason.

Flies

The stereotypical bass bug is the classic cork popper. Available in a variety of shapes and dressed with feathers, hair or rubber legs, these bugs derive their designs from early bass lures. Other surface “bugs” are constructed from chewier materials like foam or trimmed deer hair. During the summer, it’s not a bad bet to dig through your trout box for a grasshopper pattern. As with conventional bass fishing, the surface bite is only a fraction of the action. Streamers (baitfish imitations), upsized trout nymphs, wet flies and jig-like bottom bouncers are all highly effective. If you tie your own, you’ll find yourself installing weed guards on your flies to minimize hang ups.

Watercraft

Modern float tubes and kick boats have their origins in homemade 1800’s contraptions developed by bass anglers who did not want to be limited to wading or walking the shore line. These highly portable fishing platforms open lots of new fishing water, help you escape the crowd and give you a better angle of presentation to your quarry.

written by Mike Huffman

Email this post

Add one more tool for your angling arsenal by learning this handy casting technique.

Skipping Tubes to Largemouth Bass

Skipping allows you to make accurate casts to tight, otherwise inaccessible fish-holding areas.
I watched and waited. My line twitched once, then started to move. I had just skipped a purple tube under a long dock and a largemouth bass quickly decided it was dinner. I set the hook, feeling the weight of a decent fish. The largemouth swam towards the dock’s pillars with a strong surge, but the rod’s steady pressure coaxed the fish boat side. I lipped the hefty largemouth and got a photo before releasing the fish.

“Another one fooled by a skipped bait,” I said to my fishing partner as I rigged another tube. “It gets better, we’ve got a lot more docks to fish before our day’s over,” he enthusiastically replied. That day, we caught several bass by skipping tubes, and this season you can too if you take the time to learn this presentation. Here’s what you need to know.

Why You Should Skip Tubes

Bass hold under cover-laden areas to escape the sun, predators and fishing pressure and typical holding areas include docks, boat houses, pontoon boats, laydowns and overhanging branches. For many, flipping or pitching is the preferred method to fish these kinds of cover. The underhand, pendulum approach of these casting styles presents the bait straight on and from above. Although accurate and precise, the casts’ mechanics can have limitations around overhanging obstacles. This is when the low trajectory and small angle allowed by skipping tubes gives you an advantage.

Skipping Tubes
Bass hold under hard-to-reach cover to escape the sun, predators and fishing pressure.
For example, picture yourself at a long dock with boats on either side. If flipping, you’d be limited to how much of the dock you could fish and you’d likely only be able to access the periphery. The ropes securing the boats would be obstacles, and couldn’t flip beyond them, at least not without taking your chances at snagging the line.

But that same dock can be thoroughly fished by skipping tubes. With a little practice, accurate casts could let you bounce a tube under the ropes and around the boat. You could also skip a tube a considerable distance through the dock’s main opening, accessing water probably off limits to flipping.

Done properly, skipping causes minimal splash and you can skip baits from a far. This makes it a good option in clear, shallow water. Bass appear attracted to the skipped tube as it mimics the fleeting tactics of baitfish or something scurrying across the water.

Rigging Tubes for Skipping

When skipping stones, the best rocks are flat and smooth. The same logic applies to the sleek, rounded profile of tubes. To keep tubes snag resistant, rig them Tex-Posed using a 2/0 to 3/0 wide gap hook, matching hook size to the tube’s body. As skipping is an abusive presentation, use tubes with tough plastic noses to hold hooks in place.

Tube Rigged for Skipping
To keep tubes snag resistant, rig them Tex-Posed using a 2/0 to 3/0 wide gap hook, matching hook size to the tube’s body.
You’ll want to add weight to tubes to cast them with enough force so they skip and then sink upon entry. Use weighted hooks, like Falcon Lures Bait-Jerker models, or simply insert a weight into the tube. You can use weights specifically designed for tubes or insert a worm weight between 1/16 to 1/4 ounce into the tube’s body. With a worm weight insert a tooth pick horizontally, and behind it, to peg it in place. Another alternative is using a bell sinker in combination with Eagle Claw’s High Performance Hook. Stuff the sinker in the tube, then rig the bait ensuring you pass the hook point through the bell sinker’s eye. Once rigging is complete, fasten the hook’s patented clip to hold the plastic and sinker in place.

The weight’s location on the tube will influence its underwater action. A front-weighted tube will nose dive in a tight spiral, while a center-weighted one will shimmy or glide in a larger circle in a horizontal position.

The Gear You Need

I recommend skipping with a spinning outfit. Spinning reels’ stationary spools let line unravel without tangles from the irregular surge-and-bounce pull of line from a skipping bait. You’ll want to use 12- to 17-pound-test fluorocarbon or 20- to 30-pound-test superlines for their strength and abrasion resistance. Fluorocarbon is virtually invisible in the water, making it the better choice for clear lakes.

When it comes to rods, you can skip a tube with any length of stick; however, shorter rods provide more manoeuvrability around docks. I use a 5′4″ G. Loomis (SJR642) spinning rod specifically designed for skipping baits. It has a fast tip that loads with a snap of the wrist, and unloads quickly enough to propel tubes. It also has enough backbone to pull bass from cover.

How to Skip a Tube

To skip a tube, start with 6 to 12 inches of line between your rod tip and the bait. Begin a side arm cast and point the rod tip slightly downward, keeping both hands on the rod to improve casting accuracy and control. With a quick turn of the wrist, spin the tube on the line so that it rotates around the rod tip in a clockwise motion. This manoeuvre adds momentum to the tube. You can skip tubes without this first step, but I find it improves my casting distance.

Skipping Tubes
Tubes with tough plastic noses work best as skipping is an abusive presentation.
Immediately after starting to spin the tube, pull back on the rod and begin a side arm cast. As the tube completes half a rotation, snap the rod tip forward. In an ideal cast, the rod tip should unload as the tube completes 3/4 of the rotation.

At this point the bait should shoot forward at a low angle along the water. If the angle is too high, the tube will likely sink, make a big splash, or bounce on too high of an arc to bounce again.

If having difficulty keeping baits low, consider crouching, as a low trajectory is critical to this technique. Think of the perfect stone skip. The rock hops along the water in a series of small, tight splashes before sinking. Replicating this type of skip with a tube will result in controlled casts and subtle splashes. The splashes slow the bait down, and once the tube loses most its momentum it will faintly sink. This type of cast is perfect for getting under docks with minimal space between them and the water.

When penetrating leafy branches dangling in the water, you want a slightly higher skipping angle. Aim the tube in front of the branches so that it breaks through the leaves after the first bounce. To get a higher bounce, either raise the rod tip slightly so the bait hits the water at a higher angle, or keep the bait low but add a stronger snap to your cast so that the tube skips high off the water.

In most instances, the bounce and resistance of the tree’s leaves slow the bait down so that the tube’s entry has a small splash. Let the bait rest for several seconds to see if any bass are holding under the tree, then give it a few slow pulls. If there aren’t any takers, swim the bait from the cover to avoid catching the branches.

Skipping requires calm or ripple water conditions. You can’t skip rocks well in rough water and the same applies to tubes. The technique also demands accuracy. As you learn this method, use open water and practice. The mechanics will come through the repetition as will confidence and casting precision. Your reward will come when you lip a bragging-sized bass after threading a tube through the eight-inch clearance offered between the water and a dock! Learning this casting technique gives you one more tool for your angling arsenal. Who knew that the fun and the skills of that childhood game of bouncing stones would transfer to skipping tubes for largemouth bass?

written by Tim Allard

Email this post

Night Fishing Primer

The setting for a perfect night on the water.
If you’re looking to extend your fishing time and aren’t afraid of the dark, working the night shift on your local lake can bring some eye-opening surprises. The fish can run thick while the crowds remain thin, leading you to some untapped angling possibilities and a new twist to the game of fishing.

Where to Begin

The lake you choose will have a direct impact on your success at night and can also be a factor in your safety. Pick a lake that you are comfortable with and one you have fished in the past. Having a good knowledge of any given structure, as well as obstacles, is also well advised.

Make sure it is a body of water that routinely coughs up fish. If you can catch a bass at high noon on your favorite lake, you can certainly catch him at midnight.

High-pressured lakes are excellent nighttime spots. Although the influx of anglers may turn the fish off during the day, they will be more prone to actively feed once the sun goes down, giving you access to untapped angling possibilities.

Choose a lake that has close access points to the areas you intend to fish. Launch ramps that leave only a short run to the fish are best, especially for the ease and safety they provide.

Clear-water is preferred over dirty or stained, as this will increase the likelihood of fish locating your lure. Bass have excellent low-light vision, and extra bites can be had when working water that they can more easily see through.

Weather conditions can also play an important part in your decision-making. The most productive nights usually occur after a hot, sunny and calm day. The full moon period also sees an increase in fish activity and gives anglers a bit of an edge by increasing their own visibility.

Night Fishing Primer

Flipping jigs are an excellent choice for taking bass at night.

Fish will often lurk in typical “day spots” during the night, although, they may move up to shallower water. Weed and sand flats are great choices for bass, walleye, pike and muskie, especially if the vegetation has open areas and passages. Stay away from heavily vegetated spots, as these will often hold less fish while also snagging more lures. Depths will vary from lake to lake, but ten feet or less is often a good starting point.

Rock points will often cough up walleye, muskie and pike, especially if they are close to deep water. Fish will move up here to feed at night, and will be more tempted if the area has a mixture of weeds, rock and sand.

Docks are a great location to find largemouth bass. Smaller fish are attracted to the lighted structures, ultimately bringing the larger predators in. Don’t forget to work the channels surrounding docks, as this is a prime cruising lane for bass to feed in.

Rip-rap and rock shoals hold tremendous potential for smallmouth bass, as these areas are an excellent hangout for crawfish. Walleye and muskie will also key in on the hard stuff, especially when a bit of wood or weed is thrown into the mix.

Humps will generally hold all types of fish. Locate those with a shallow feeding shelf that borders deep water, and you may hit a gold mine.

Lures of the Night

Night Fishing Primer

The author shows the rewards of another successful night.

No matter what specie you plan to target, there are a few simple rules for selecting baits. Offering the fish a silhouette at night is your best bet for getting a strike. Since the sky will be lighter than the water, the color black will be most visible, and is a nighttime standard when it comes to fishing.

Sound is also important at night, as fish use their inner ears and lateral line to detect motion and disturbances. Noisy topwaters, rattling crankbaits, and flipping jigs or worms with sound chambers will allow fish to key in on baits more easily.

Scent also comes into play, and all slow-moving baits (jigs, worms etc.) should get a healthy dose of a commercial scent product.  This will help fish detect baits, as well as hold on to them for longer periods of time.

The following list represents some tried and true baits for fishing at night:

Bass (largemouth and smallmouth)

* Topwater baits
* Spinnerbaits
* Rattle cranks
* Jigs
*
Night Fishing Lures

A selection of baits that work well for nighttime bassin’.

Worms
* Lizards
* Tubes

Walleye

* Crankbaits
* Jigsheads
* Livebait (minnows/worms)

Musky/Pike

* Bucktails Spinners
* Topwaters
* Jerkbaits
* Large jigs
* Spoons

Equipment for night fishing is fairly standard. Baitcast or heavy spinning gear will get the job done, as finesse and light-line tactics are not necessary. Sensitive rods work well at night, enabling an angler to feel the movement of their lure, as well as subtle strikes. Ensure that reels are smooth and drags set correctly, as darkness is not the environment you want for gear failure.

Mono or braid both work well, although many rely on fluorescent line for the characteristics it holds. When used in conjunction with a black light, fluorescent line will give off a bright glow, enabling an angler to watch for strikes or pickups, see where their lure is and better work a retrieve — an excellent option for the beginner or advanced night fisherman.

Night Fishing Primer

Headlamps, flashlights and search beams are all necessary for a safe night on the water.

When fishing at night, weighing down the boat with excess rods and tackle is not necessary. Take three rod and reel combos and a tackle tray or two. This will simplify things and leave one less obstacle to trip over when moving in the boat at night.

Safety at Night

Fishing at night is a fun and enjoyable sport, but as in all aspects of angling, accidents can happen. A cold lake shrouded in darkness is one place you don’t want accidents to occur.

Planning and foresight can go a long way. Religiously make a checklist before heading out, and always ensure that gear and safety equipment is in proper working order. The following list represents some good advice for minimizing the risks:

* Always let someone know where you are fishing and when you will be home. If possible, fish with a partner.
* Launch your boat as close as possible to the areas you intend to fish.
* Ensure that boat running lights are working, and keep them on at all times.
* Take a fully charged cell phone.
* Wear a lifejacket.
* Keep a search spotlight on board, as well as two flashlights and a headlamp.
* A landing net and long-nosed pliers should always be on deck.
* A GPS unit can help you find the launch in bad weather, or if you get disorientated. A compass can be invaluable if a GPS unit is not available.
* Whistle and flares work well for attracting attention.
* Orientate yourself with the water during daylight hours before venturing out at night.
* Stick close to shore until you feel comfortable and capable.
* Bring bug repellent and a first aid kit.
* Check weather forecasts before heading out.

Fishing at night can be a great experience. It certainly adds a new element to angling and can put you on a ton of untapped fish. Give it a go this season and see all the action you’ve been missing!

written by Justin Hoffman

Email this post

Shaky Head Bass
Finicky fish are no match for the shaky head system.
The latest craze to hit the bassin’ scene may be short on looks and flash, but is a big-time producer when it comes to finessing finicky fish. Dubbed the “Shaky Head,” this jig-and-plastic combo garners its strength, and name, from the subtle and natural action that the bait transmits. When times are tough, shaking up some bass may be your honest-to-goodness best bet.

Shaky Head 101

A shaky head jig is a lightweight leadhead, with 1/16 to 1/4 ounce sizes being the most common. This ball-shaped jig is coupled with a light wire bass-style hook, making the use of finesse plastic baits a reality. A retainer system is often a standard feature, which allows plastic baits to be fit snug and tight, while also giving an angler the option to go completely weedless.

The eye position of the bait is generally affixed to the jig in a horizontal manner. This, coupled with the design of the head itself, gives the jig the ability to “stand up” when resting on bottom. Add to this the action of the plastic trailer, and you’re left with one tantalizing morsel that is begging to be slurped up.

The plastic baits you use should incorporate a thin profile and be subtle in appearance. They will generally fall between three and five-inches in length, and are almost always in the form of a worm. Baits such as these will project an unobtrusive and natural look in the watery world of the bass, and that is paramount to the ultimate success of the technique.

Since we are dealing with an ultra finesse presentation, spinning gear and light line is the only route to go. 6 1/2 or 7-foot medium-light to medium action rods are mainstays on the shaky head front, and should be coupled with quality reels that offer smooth drags and excellent cranking power.

Monofilament line in six or eight-pound test is fairly standard, as is fine-diameter braid. If using braid, ensure that a fluorocarbon leader is part of the package.

Shake at the Right Time

The art of shaky head fishing relies solely on the ability to impart finesse. This is in sharp contrast to the mainstream actions most of us use as “power” fishing generally rules the roost when out for a day in the boat. Although big baits, quick speeds, and over-the-head hooksets definitely work when bass are chomping at the bait, switching gears to a subtler and overtly finesse approach will bag fish when bites are few and far between.

Shaky Head Jigs and Plastics
An example of the rigging protocol for shaky head fishing.
The shaky head presentation excels when certain criteria are met. Clear water is one such case. The clearer the water, the greater the chance of bass becoming extremely finicky or spooked. During these tough times, regular baits often won’t cut it.

A shaky head and finesse worm, subtlely twitched and quivered on bottom can illicit strikes, turning these non-takers into biters. If you can see the fish clearly in the water below, or if you have frequent follows and short-strikes, then a shaky head needs to be next out of the box.

Cold fronts are another scenario when shaky’s can shine. We all know what a tough fish it can become when faced with bluebird skies and passing fronts – it’s almost as if the fish have packed up and moved on to another lake. But drop a finesse worm and jig through the depths, and the fish are almost certain to “reappear.”

If sight fishing or searching for bedding bass is your thing (and legal), the shaky head system truly shines. Spooking fish is a thing of the past when tossing this bait to fish you have your sights on, and the natural look and action will trick these wary creatures each and every time.

Shaky heads also make a great technique when dealing with high angling pressure, especially when working “community” fishing holes. Spots such as these can get beat up pretty quick, and bass become programmed to turn up their nose at the everyday lure that routinely swims by. Give them something small and different, while giving it that subtle shake, and these wise-old fish just may let their guard down.

Some tournament co-anglers have had phenomenal success when fishing a shaky from the back of the boat. With the pro’s working larger power presentations from the front, these savvy anglers in the back were cashing in with their finesse baits. (Kind of like choosing to take the mint but passing on the dessert.)

Subtleties of the Shake

The great thing about shaky head’s is how easy they are to fish. Imparting a light, quivering action — either through the rod tip or via the slack line — is all that is ever really needed. You’re not looking for flash or fireworks with this bait, but the most natural of appearances you can produce. Even when left alone, the finesse worm will sway and undulate with the action of the water, and this subtleness alone will often get the job done. The greatest key when tossing these baits is to not overwork them.

Shaky Head
Cold front conditions are an excellent weather pattern to be tossing shaky head jigs and finesse worms.
Slowly dragging a shaky along bottom, especially when working larger areas, can also be an effective tactic. Although it is called a “jig,” jigging it up and down isn’t really recommended.

Keep your movements subtle and always along the lines of finesse, and you can’t fish this system wrong.

The shaky head can be thrown to a wide variety of places, but definitely excel when tossed alongside weedlines and clumps, rip rap and humps, beaches, docks and laydowns. Depending on the severity of vegetation will play a part on whether to go weedless or not.

Smallmouth and largies love this bait, so making it a go-to lure for both species is definitely beneficial.

Top Baits

Most lure manufacturers are coming out with their own design of shaky head jigs. Nuances in head design, weed guard, hook style, and weight are typical with jigs of this nature, but most will get the job done fine. Some of the more popular baits on the market are made by Strike King, Chompers, Bite-Me, Luck “E” Strike, Buckeye, Parasite and Fin-tech. My suggestion is to get a decent selection that will cover the spectrum of weight, color and rigging design.

Finesse worms come in all shapes, sizes and colors. Some to look out for are the BPS Drop Shot Worm and Quiver Round Tail Minnow, Berkley Gulp Shaky Worm, Zoom Shakey Head Worm, and Wave Worm Tiki-Drop. Again, pick up a variety of colors and sizes in order to cover all bases.

See what the shaky head fuss is all about this coming season. It is one tactic guaranteed to convert finicky fish into sure biters.

written by Justin Hoffman

Email this post

Kayaks offer anglers a low-cost solution for getting off the bank and on top of some great bass-fishing hot spots. To learn more about battling Mr. Bucketmouth from a kayak, read on.

Kayak Bassin
Don Theoret fished a weedy bay to land this largemouth bass taken on a topwater frog.
Kayak fishing is one of the hottest trends in the outdoor industry today. Extremely popular with costal anglers, the paddling-and-angling approach is quickly drifting inland as freshwater anglers catch the kayak-fishing bug.

More freshwater enthusiasts are becoming kayak converts — and for good reason. Compared to power boats, kayaks are a low-cost solution for getting off the shore and on top of some great fishing spots. Although there’s no shortage of fish you can target out of a kayak, paddling your way to a largemouth backwater bonanza is definitely one of my favorite ways to spend a day. Here’s what you need to know about using kayaks to battle Mr. Bucketmouth.

Beyond the Limits of Powered Bass Boats

A big advantage to kayaks is that they let you access small ponds, rivers and backwater areas normally off limits to bass boats. Even more, these areas are often excellent areas for big largemouth. Before you launch, however, take some time to pick prime fishing waters. One good tactic is to find smaller backwater spots connected to the larger water body known to hold big fish. As long as there’s not a blockade, if decent bass are in the bigger system, they’ll be in the smaller areas too. These fish are also likely less-pressured, which can mean outstanding fishing.

For exploration purposes, I find a sit-on-top kayak best. This design lets you easily get in and out of the boat. Once you arrive at your destination, it’s up to you to catch the fish, but here are my favourite largemouth bass kayaking techniques.

Slop Fishing Stealth

One of my favourite ways to target largemouth bass is with topwater frogs. This presentation is a blast out of a kayak. Kayaks let you get right into the heart of this cover. In thick slop, weeds will wrap around paddles, making manoeuvrability and paddling more challenging than in open water, but the effort is worth it for the shot at a trophy fish. Once you get into the shallow stuff, a stealth approach is a must. Keep noise and boat-to-boat chatter to a minimum to avoid spooking fish.

Kayak Bass Fishing
Jamie Pistilli paddles an Ocean Kayak through shallow water to a back bay off limits to larger power boats.
When casting topwaters, be prepared for strikes at any time during the retrieve. It’s common for bass to hit a frog a few feet from a kayak, which happens much less often when I’m in my power boat.

For frogging, I use a heavy-power baitcast outfit, teamed with a 7:1 gear ratio reel to help me quickly winch largemouth up and out of the thick cover. Sometimes dropping an anchor on the edge of the slop can prevent you from being pulled into the weeds when locked in battle with a fish.

In addition to slop and pads, I use hollow-bodied frogs and swimming toads in open water areas. I like that these baits can pull double duty, so I don’t have to bring a lot of topwaters out with me.

Slam ‘em on Spinnerbaits

Without a doubt, a spinnerbait is an excellent search lure for bass. What I like about a spinnerbait is that, due to its horizontal presentation, it’s perfectly suited for the low-to-the-water seated position of kayakers. Another advantage to spinnerbaits is they’re a single hook lure. Whenever I can, I avoid treble hooks when kayak fishing, and if I do use them, I try and always net-land fish. Sticking with a single hook helps reduce the chances of boat side mishaps in the kayak’s low-to-the-water position.

Spinnerbaits also make great search lures, letting you comb through a bay or drift along a shoreline firing out casts to quickly determine if any bass are in the area. Mostly weedless and snag-free, these baits excel in almost any conditions, excluding heavy cover. Bulge them on the surface or slow roll them over deep weed tops. When kayak fishing, space is always a premium. I opt for versatile lures I can work in a variety of fishing scenarios. The spinnerbait is one of my top choices when I’m out of the slop for largies.

Finesse ‘em with Softbaits

Softbaits catch a lot of largemouth, and there’s no reason you can’t fish them out of kayaks. In a light breeze, drifting and hopping, grubs, tube jigs or Texas-rigged worms is a deadly way to cover water and intercept active fish. You can also fan cast areas, which is good situation for swimbaits. When conditions are calm and the bite’s tough, casting wacky-rigged soft jerkbaits is deadly on bass out of any boat.

Dunk Weed Pockets

Vertical presentations can make for challenging hook sets when seated in a kayak, but are still worth trying in prime conditions. When bass are holding tight and deep in weeds, sometimes the only way to hook them is picking apart an area. Short-line flipping (i.e., with an engaged reel and the free hand pulling, then releasing excess line) or dunking weed pockets can be done from a kayak, but often only in calm conditions. It takes a bit of practice, but you’ll soon get the hang of it. As a general rule, try and keep the lure positioned in front of the boat. This way, when you set the hook, the movement follows the length of the kayak ensuring a more stable hook set.

Being Low is a Good Thing

Although the low position of a kayak may be perceived as somewhat of a disadvantage for flipping situations, the posture these paddle boats provide makes for great skipping baits under overhanging cover from a kayak. Using a side-arm cast, keep baits low to the water and toss them under shaded cover areas, like docks or trees. Top skipping baits include tubes, soft jerkbaits, or salt-loaded creature baits rigged Texposed.

As you can see, many of the top power-boat bass-fishing tactics work, or can be adjusted, to fishing out of a kayak. If you haven’t yet, consider renting or borrowing a kayak and paddle to some back bays you know hold bass. Be warned though; once you lock in battle with a largemouth in a kayak, you might find yourself assimilated into one of the hottest and fastest growing trends in angling today. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

written by Tim Allard

Email this post